Brewing for 20 years: Gritty McDuff's

Opinions are sharply divided about Gritty McDuff's in Portland nightlife circles.

We all love that Gritty’s brews its own (delicious) beer, serves good food and is a comfortable, sociable place with nice patrons and relaible staff.

However, on weekends and busy summer nights, the place is often mobbed and it takes WAY too long to get a drink. These nights recall a famous Yogi Berra quip, "No one goes there anymore, it's too crowded."

The reason for crowds is no secret. Gritty's Portland location (there’s also pubs in Auburn and Freeport) is in the heart of the primest of prime nightlife real estate. A front entrance on Fore Street, a back entrance on Wharf Street and two sprawling floors of space contribute to the bar’s popularity, which may be at its peak during this, its 20th year.

The first brewpub in Maine since Prohibition, Gritty's was opened by Ed Stebbins and Richard Pfeffer in 1988.

"People didn't even know what a brew pub was," said marketing director Thomas Wilson. "There were very few brew pubs in North America at the time. It was the beginning of a whole revolution."

That revolution spread to Freeport in 1995 and Auburn 10 years later. Wilson also hinted Gritty's is always looking for more locations, though nothing concrete planned.

The McDuff beer is also distributed in 22 oz. bottles (great for brown bagging), six-packs and 12-packs across New England, Pennsylvania, New Jersey, and, as of March 24, Florida. All three pubs brew their own beer onsite and bottled beer is contracted out to Shipyard, the Maine craft beer juggernaut.

That wide geographic swath means that tourists see the Gritty's sign on Fore Street and make the brew pub/six-pack connection, which vastly increases business. Even on Easter Sunday, there were about 30-40 people upstairs (the downstairs was closed) enjoying Maine brews.

Although there are usually nightly $3 Gritty's beer specials, there were none on this night to my chagrin. So we settled into a $12 pitcher of Best Brown, a dark, sweet beer that is more filling than a cardboard and cheese slice from Bill's Pizza.

This was a nice time to enjoy McDuff’s; it wasn't empty but there was ample breathing room. I have fond memories of chilling at Gritty's during holidays and other slow nights because it is a great opportunity to enjoy their beers (Scottish is my favorite) and the unique city views.

There are also memories of the pub being so crowded that it was impossible to get a drink. There were multiple occasions when my friends and I left after 15 minutes because of demoralizing crowds.

This, of course, is a good thing for Gritty's. It means they are making bucks. It is a popular hangout that markets itself well. The "Mug Club" is a great example. For $75 annually, you get your own 20 oz. mug that hangs from the front bar. That mug can be filled for $2 on Tuesdays and Sundays in Portland (and other days in Freeport and Auburn), plus you get 5 percent back on all purchases. There are 468 mugs available, and only 468. If you want a mug, get on the waiting list, which can take up to a year.

Though you've got to be a pretty big fan to join the prestigious Mug Club, it's an idea that works because Portland loves to drink. There’s also a “Brewtique” stocked with memorabilia, again a decision made with the hardcore fan in mind. Also notable is that a variety of retired beer varieties make appearances this year as a celebration of Gritty McDuff’s 20th year, yet another reason to check out the pub.

But honestly, it all comes down to the beer. If you are a fan of testing new brews, it's definitely a place worth visiting, though I would recommend going during a slower time to avoid the large crowds.

"People around here want to have a good time," said bar manager Ryan Guite. "And our product is superior."

And what else?

"We're the best brewery, best bar and best pub in Maine," Wilson says.

And the most confident.