"That's just a fun fact," says general manager Tom Fiorini. "But ironically enough, up above (at the original location on Fore Street) was a massage parlor."

Another popular notion, particularly among tourists and other non-regulars, is that all the beers are $3.

"We get that all the time. 'I thought everything was $3,'" Fironi says. Not true, though during Happy Hour (4 to 8 p.m.) and after 9 p.m. there is almost always a premium draft for $2.75.

So the name may be a bit misleading, but it does the job by being provocative. Fiorini says the bar is a Maine icon, joked about by 97.9 FM in Boston and recognized by people across the country. But when it comes down to it, Deweys is all about the beer.

In fact, Fiorini is so in tune with his brews, he monitors how each one is selling, down to the pint, through an intuitive computer system. He then swaps them for new beers "if anything is slipping in sales."

The beers are changed up about four times a year, and the selection includes Maine micro brews, national macro brews and imports from afar like Italy and Germany. Even with all those choices, the bestsellers so far this year are Shipyard Export and Allagash White.

Our visit came on a Sunday night (Shipyard Sunday, with $2.75 Shipyard drafts), a good time to sit back and relax in a bar normally pretty crowded. This night Deweys was relatively empty, the bouncer dazed from a long and busy spring weekend.

After downing a Shipyard, my adventurous spirit lured me to the Black List, a selection of drinks concocted with Guinness displayed on a chalkboard. A Black & Tan (Guinness and Bass) was necessary, but there are more ridiculous blends to sample.

Even I wasn't brave enough to try a possibly disgusting Guinness and Champagne mix. Instead, I went with the Black Dog: Guinness and Seadog Apricot. Sounds gross, right? Nah, it was delicious. It was the booze form of consuming a delicious fruit cake. If you are willing to try something new, this blend comes highly recommended.

After the name and the beer selection, free popcorn is a big draw. Buttery and totally unhealthy, this stuff is a must-have after a couple o' pints. It is all over the floor already, which made me feel better after I inevitably spilled it.

Long on content (beers, food and popcorn), Deweys is a bit light on atmosphere. The lights are the brightest (as far as I know) in Portland and the seating is uncomfortable. The music was 80s rock, most of which should have been left in 80s. The bar is, however, a big open space, which lends itself to partying with lots of friends and meeting new people, but probably not to bringing a date.

"We don't have music anymore. We dispensed with our entertainment license," Fiorini says. "Now it's a place where people come and talk and meet."

Deweys is Portland's original brew pub. Opened by Allen Eames in 1981 on Fore Street, the pub eventually moved to Commercial Street and expanded its draft beer selection from eight to 36. But other bars have moved in on a market that Three Dollar Deweys invented back in the day.

"The pie hasn't gotten bigger. If anything, it's gotten smaller. Obviously since we opened our doors in '81 there's a lot more (nightlife opportunities)," Fiorini explains. "Our number one thing is providing a draft line that's entertaining."

The free popcorn doesn't hurt, either.

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