Guinness is good: Brian Boru

“Guinness is good for you” - Slogan used before health officials decided promoting alcohol use for people as healthy was counterproductive.

Actually, according to a 2003 University of Wisconsin study, Guinness shows some health benefits, mainly by reducing blood clotting. Regardless of how healthy or unhealthy the black grog is, it is a delicious beverage with memorabilia and taps planted in every Irish-ish pub in the world. And it is the bread and butter of Old Port staple Brian Boru.

“The amount of Guinness and how it is poured” sets Brian Boru apart, says manager Roger Knipp. “We’ve got two taps downstairs and one upstairs.”

I watched Knipp carefully as he poured my Guinness (an amazing Sunday drink special that also includes Harp, Smithwicks and Bass for two and a half Washingtons). Knipp let the brew settle while the glass was two-thirds full, letting the nitrogen rise to the top before topping it off, giving the drink a white head that remains through many sips.

I once stepped to a Wharf Street bar and ordered a Guinness on special. No joke, the clueless bartender straight up handed me a can (with no glass) and walked away. Even a casual pub crawler knows this is borderline sacrilegious. A perfect pour is a big part of what makes Guinness so desirable.

Because of all the Guinness signs and promotions throughout Boru, it was reassuring to know they take pride in their pour. But Brian Boru goes beyond just the physics of imported beers to stand out, starting with the building itself, painted with a vibrant blast of red and black, and covered in Guinness paintings, a colorful toucan and other decorations.

Inside, the decor is simple. Wood and brick make up most of the interior styling, with large wooden benches providing somewhat uncomfortable seating. Copious beervertisements are plastered about, with a few pieces of art, most notably a painting of Brian Boru’s very own exterior by Portland artist R.N. Cohen.

Boru has two floors, the upper one supporting Boru’s live music scene and a mini bar while the bottom features a larger bar with more beers on tap. Each floor also has a deck/patio, with the upper area boasting a swell view of downtown P-town. Staircases connect both the outdoors and indoors, allowing for multiple escape routes from the oft-crowded patios. Though not a large building, the bar accommodates a lot of people with its layout, which has a proven track record.

“The bar opened 15 years ago in July, 1993. There haven’t been any changes at all besides some (minor) upgrading,” Knipp says.

Changes have been made to the menu, though. In January, new chef Brian Clark changed selections once full of nachos and quesadillas to a mix of regular pub fare and Irish cuisine, a crucial adjustment considering the amount of competition Boru faces. I threw back some garlic fries, a simple, massive plate of fries drizzled with garlic and oil for $6. Goes great with Guinness and sticks with you, especially your breath.

In addition to being off the beaten path, the crowd at Brian Boru is a bit older than the normal revelers, with the exception of Boru’s crazy weekends.

“During the week we attract a middle-aged crowd, maybe 30s and up. Friday and Saturday, after 8 p.m. it’s 21 to 40. During the day, it depends on the weather. During nice weather we are busier because we have the deck outside,” Knipp says.

Brian Boru is a departure from the Fore Street, Commercial Street and Wharf Street areas, if only because of the great layout and different crowd. For a person looking to go crazy, the weekends would be the time to go. On weekdays or midday it is perfect for a snack and a couple drinks, especially Guinness, which may or may not be good for you. The jury is still out.