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June 04, 2008

Revolution: Novare Res

Portland's beer selection just got bigger. A lot bigger.

See, there’s this hip new place tucked away in the Old Port, and the word of mouth is REALLY getting around. It’s gone from "Nothin' to Somethin'" (title of a bad rap album by Fabolous) in just a couple weeks.

It is a place without equal, but maybe not for long, if anyone decides the revolution will continue at other bars.

“Novare Res, it’s Latin to start a revolution,” says owner Eric Michaud, who opened up shop two weeks ago. “It’s just a little beer drinking revolution. I want to get people into better quality, craft-brewed beer because of all the crap that’s out there.”

This revolution brings with it 25 drafts, 250 bottles (some brews clock in over $40), a bunch of high-end tequila and scotch plus some light food. Novare Res also has a huge, 2000 square foot deck and a basement that mimics a European public house. Unfortunately, the bar also offers confusion.

Novare Res didn’t plan to be so popular. My first visit, coming on the heels of the Old Port Festival, ended abruptly. Though it was packed with people, Michaud was shutting the bar down as I arrived. They had kicked kegs and run out of bottles, and the outdoor sign read, “Closing at 9 p.m. due to staff quality control.”

So we went back on Tuesday (Monday: closed for maintenance) and things improved. Mainly, the bar was open. But confusion still abounded. It is going to take some time for the staff to become familiar with all their beers, especially which ones are currently in stock.

The first three of my five beer selections (more like guesses. I’ve never heard of most of the beers) were out of stock, and conspicuously, these were all beers on the less expensive side.

The current draft beer menu was handwritten because the printed one didn’t reflect the tapped kegs. Ordering a draft required cross-referencing the two menus, increasing the complexity of an already difficult beer selection process.

There has to be a better way, maybe a large chalkboard or TV monitor listing available beers. By the time our beers were finally in hand, we had been sitting outside for 20 minutes.

I eventually went with a bottle of Smuttynose IPA that had some floaties in it (“I think it’s some hyperactive yeast,” our server said) but was drinkable. My lady friend went with Beamish, a close cousin of Guinness.

Trying out crazy new beers is great fun. The only places with a selection even close are Dewey’s, Great Lost Bear and Local 188. The International Tap House on Fore Street should open soon, too.

“It sounds like they are pushing the envelope,” Michaud said of his future competitor. “Being right there on the corner, we both might be pouring great beers next to each other.”

Maine beer fans will likely scan up and down the beer list looking for their favorites. Shipyard, Sea Dog, Geary’s, Gritty’s...where are the Maine brews? The only one on the menu is Allagash.

“I wouldn’t say Maine beer is great. There are plenty of breweries, but they’re all doing the same thing,” Michaud says. “Allagash branched out and is doing things different.”

So if you need your Shipyard Export, skip Novare Res immediately. This place is more about discovering European beers (on the menu, Germany is abbreviated DEU for Deutsch) and beers from other states. And Michaud isn't importing the stuff straight from the Other Side; all the beers are available in Maine.

Soldiering on, I went with the Anchor Porter, which was so-so, and my lady friend tried the Einbecker Mai-Ur-Bock, which is like Heineken, but sweeter. It is so refreshing to see the different beers from across the land, the bottles they use and get a taste for how other cultures cope without Geary’s Pale Ale. Even more wide-ranging than the tastes are the alcohol contents.

For example, Beamish Stout is at the low end of the spectrum, well under 5 percent alcohol. You could drink these gradually over time and stay reasonable. At the high end, you’ve got Dogfish Headfort 750 ml bottles. This Greek God of booze clocks in at $25 a bottle, and 18 PERCENT alcohol.

Drinking one of these is the equivalent of drinking half a bottle of Smirnoff. Cripes! Pay attention to the menu. Otherwise, you'll have to give Home Runners a call.

Novare Res is a great idea. The deck is beautiful and the location is tucked away, which helps keep the “riffraff out,” as Michaud says. The beer selection is astounding, and truly encapsulates every different type of brew you can think of. But Novare Res still has some kinks to work out...

  • The service is slow as heck and the menus are inaccurate and bloated, BUT our server took our most expensive drink off the bill because of this, and we didn’t even ask her to. That is some good, progressive customer service.
  • No Maine brews besides Allagash? Come on! I can understand not carrying the well-known ones, but show a little love to Old Thumper or Sea Dog Apricot.
  • If you want a mixed drink, look elsewhere. There is tequila and scotch on the menu, but like everything else here, the place is highly specialized.
  • This prices are up there with Una and White Heart's cocktails. Throw me a bone with some drink specials or bring some lesser known, crappy beers, like Narragansett or Natty Boh. It also didn’t help that Brooklyn Lager, the only sub-$4 beer, was out-of-stock when I went.
  • If Novare Res can tackle a couple of these issues, they will be a fixture in Portland for years and years. So give them some time, then hit ‘em up.

    (Whew, I just wrote 1000 words...a new record. There is a LOT to say about this bar)




    Posted by John Burgess Everett at 11:21 AM
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    Comments

    Very nice review. I totally agree with the lack of local brews and economy options. These are usually a staple of any bar or restaurant worth its beans here. Heck even PBR is thought to be trendy by some.

    Posted by Kelly
    June 9, 2008 09:42 AM

    Yeah it seems the other "nice bars" I have been to, like Una or Local 188, have some sort of economy options. People want to go out even though they can't drop $35, myself included.

    Posted by JBE
    June 9, 2008 12:25 PM

    Novare Res is excellent. It is a little costly in comparison to other bars in the area, but the selection (if you're a beer drinker) is well worth it. Unlike many bars in the area it's very low-key, and non-clubby a la Liquid Blue or The Iguana. And if you want a local brew...try Gritty's it's right up the street...Novare Res isn't about local brews, it's about worldly brews, which makes it unique.

    Posted by Sam
    June 10, 2008 02:13 PM

    Michaud's a fool for dissing Maine beers. Has he even tried many of them for Christ's sake? I agree - he oughta put a few more local brews on the menu, if for no other reason but to support local businesses. I'd suggest any of Sheepscot's tasty ales, particularly Monhegan Wheat; Andrew's Pale Ale; Sebago's topnotch Frye's Leap; Casco Bay's Riptide Red. Atlantic's Blueberry Ale, or Kennebec Brewing's (in Gardiner, not West Forks) delectable Sturgeon Stout. Those are all great beers.

    Posted by Chug-a-lug
    June 12, 2008 12:59 PM

    Ich liebe diesen Stab. Ich hole in einem Kasten der Wurst und gerade fart und lache die ganze Nacht. Großes Bier, große Frauen. Ich liebe es!

    Posted by Dieter
    June 12, 2008 01:18 PM

    I agree with Sam. Novare Res is a great bar. Yes, there are many great Maine beers and several from Allagash are available at this bar. But Novare Res is trying to be a European beer cafe, given that's the goal it's entirely appropriate that they've minimized the Maine brews on the menu. There are dozens of places in Portland to get a Maine beer. You wouldn't expect a vegan restaurant to go against its mission and serve beef, so don't expect the European beer cafe to serve PBR. Chug-a-Lug, he's not "dissing Maine beers" he's just choosing to go in a different direction.

    Posted by Anonymous
    June 12, 2008 06:51 PM

    Riff-raff? This guy Michaud sounds like a real tool; uses a pretty broad brush implying there are no great local brews. I think I'll skip this place.

    Posted by stace
    June 13, 2008 11:29 AM

    Hey Anon: You make some great points, but who said anything about PBR? I'm talking good Maine brews. And yeah, he is dissing them with his quote.

    Besides, it sounds like he's serving a few domestics, like Smuttynose, Brooklyn, Allagash and Anchor for example. And by the way, I agree with Mr. Everett: Anchor's nothing special. I think other Maine brews stack up well against it.

    Look I love Euro-beer, especially Belgian. I didn't love his quote about Maine brews. Sounded a tad ignorant to me. My main point was that he should support a few more locally-brewed beer by adding it to his menu, perhaps on a rotating basis.

    Posted by Chug-a-lug
    June 13, 2008 11:52 AM

    John--

    The reason your Smuttynose IPA "had some floaties in it" is because it is unfiltered.

    Posted by Tiggy
    June 13, 2008 08:37 PM

    Thanks. Good to know.

    Posted by JBE
    June 14, 2008 10:43 PM

    One word....SICK! The owner Eric is extremely knowledgable and has a lot of respect for the Maine brewers, but is correct in saying they are all doing the same thing, UK style beers (PA,IPA,porters, etc) which i love like mother's milk but some times you want variety. As far as the riff raff, this dude was obviously kidding but has some truth too it. Sometimes when i get out of work and want a good pint, i could deal without the roid ragers and the girl who is throwing up yelling on the phone at her boyfriend. If your into that, Prost just opened and is prime real estate, with its 50 versions of budlight on tap! This place is fun as hell, good music, awesome deck, an great cheap sandwich (5 bucks), and if you ever want to know anything about beer, Eric is a F*&%kin guru, seriously I read an article and the dude seriously went to college for beer (i.e. brewed with monks, etc)! Viva La Revolucion

    Posted by Ptowner
    June 20, 2008 11:59 AM

    If you love beer, Novare Res is the best bar in Portland period. I'd like address a few of the complaints in the review, which I found to be a very well written and truthful review.

    The service is slow and the menus are inaccurate and bloated: Service is slow because many of these beers are meant to be poured slowly and not just dumped into a glass like a Bud Light or Coors. And the menu is pretty accurate for having over 250(!!!) beers on their list. I went into Proust on a Sunday and out of their 100 beers on tap (most of which are cheap knockoffs made by a brewer to satisfy cheap taste) 40+ weren't available. So it's not just a Novare Res issue. These beers are expensive and to sit on 30 cases of $20 beer would be ridiculous for them.

    No Maine Brews: It's a conscious decision. They want to go a different direction than say The Great Lost Bear or Gritty's. Nothing wrong with that and as it's been stated before if you want local brews there are plenty of bars in Portland that carry them.

    No mixed drinks: Same as above. It's a beer garden, not a mixed drink house. However, their selection of liquors is very high end and tasty.

    It's Expensive: Yes it is. If you don't want to spend good money on amazing beer, don't go there. As I said above, it's a conscious decision by the owner.

    I'm a self professed beer connoisseur and I couldn't be happier that a place for beer snobs has finally opened in Portland. If you want to open your eyes to beer from around the world and give your taste buds a charge go to Novare Res immediately. If your tastes don't tend to gravitate that way, good luck finding somewhere for you. I have found my new bar and I couldn't be more pumped! Viva La Revolution!

    Posted by Jake
    July 16, 2008 09:26 AM

    Jake, you've hit the nail on the head with the comment about Novare Res being a place for 'beer snobs.' Not only is the owner a complete snob, he has a business that caters to pretention rather than good taste.

    Both times I have been to Novare Res (and I'm not planning on going back), the beer has been too expensive, the staff has been incredibly lackluster and uninformed, the food has been worth half (and I'm being generous) of what it costs, and the overall attitude has been obnoxious.

    While I'll admit that the deck is a nice fixture, the only real customer needs it seems to serve is for those who want to smoke cigarettes and cigars while drinking their beers. If these people are real beer connoisseurs, why mess with the flavor of their $15 brew by smoking while drinking it? Doesn't make any sense to me...

    Overall, I'll be glad that those who look down their noses at proper, local Maine beers have a place to gather. I'll be far away, with the right sort of crowd.

    Posted by Lee
    August 16, 2008 03:00 PM

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    4 Canal Plaza, Suite 1, Portland, ME 04101
    207 761-bier (2437) | novareresbiercafe.com photo
    Map all bars
  • Hours...Monday through Thursday: 4 p.m. to 1 a.m. Friday: 3 p.m. to 1 a.m. Saturday and Sunday: Noon to 1 a.m.
  • Games/Amenities: The exclusive mug club room is for those who have sampled 200 of Novare Res' beers. Another highlight is the 2000 square-foot deck, complete with beer sheathes-turned-ashtrays. Darts and a pool table are coming. Also, no TV.
  • Music: It's DJ iPod right now, so it depends on the bartender.
  • Cover: No, but there might as well be because everything costs dollar$.
  • Drink Specials: "Everything's a special," says owner Eric Michaud.
  • Food: Cheese, meats, a couple little sandwiches, but pretty light and classy. Check out the menu here.
  • Bathrooms: The doors are old, swinging office entrances, which I've never seen before. According to my sources, the latch on the women's bathroom was broken, so the antique accommodations might get stressed by large crowds.
  • Cheapest drink: Brooklyn lager bottles are $3.75. The Smuttynose IPA is the cheapest draft at $4.75.
  • Payment: Ca$h, Vi$a or Ma$tercard.
  • Wants to be a: A beer revolution. The selections are mind-boggling, the deck is awesome and the bar is popular. The prices also reflect all that. Michaud is trying to stay classy, and Novare Res might even remain that way.
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