April 07, 2009
A Touch of Japan: Sapporo
Located on Commercial Street, Sapporo has a sweet view of the bay and all the action on the tourist drag. It's a definite patio drinking spot.
According to our server, not many people visit Sapporo just to drink booze - they come for the authentic Japanese food and atmosphere, which makes sense since the food is beloved and the bar is, well, not a full one.
Beneath the low ceiling with warm, orange lights and earthy wooden walls, we sat at the sushi bar. Instrumental jazz hummed and the sushi chefs expertly rolled maki. Even though I'd just eaten dinner, there was no way I could walk out of that place without some tobiko in my belly.
First thing's first. I needed a saketini. I scanned the price - $6.50 - a little high for my budget, but I really wanted one. "May I please have a saketini with Grey Goose?"
"I'm sorry. We only have Absolut and Stoli," my server apologized.
"Huh?" That strange vodka sentence was making no sense. Only Absolut (gross) and Stoli (eh)?
"We don't have a full bar," she explained.
My disappointment stank up the vibe. Grey Goose is the only vodka I want in my sake. I know this because I tried to make them at home once using Three Olives (which is quite good with tonic) and the saketinis were a disaster - possibly because the vodka was cranberry flavored. Okay, a bad choice on my part…
I settled for 300ml Yamada Nishiki ($12.95), my partner hooked up 300ml Karantanba ($12.95) and we shared a pitcher of draft Kirin ($13.50). I was hoping to try a new unfiltered sake, but like every other Japanese restaurant in this town you can only get the same brand.
While we sipped the sake and nibbled on a small assortment of sushi, I glanced at the big-screen TV to my left. It was a little distracting, but if you were into the game you would may have been happy to watch it in a quiet setting. Our server told me there's no happy hour or drinking specials but every Friday and Saturday night they dim the lights, crank the music and pull down a big screen to project music videos. You can also get some sushi deals then.
On the website you'll find a lunch menu, lunch sushi menu, dinner menu and dinner sushi menu. You don't need me to tell you the food is good. Everyone knows that already.
What's important is the drink. The booze. The sauce. The hooch. The choices on the drink menu include the following beers for $2.75-6.50: Sapporo, Kirin bottled and draft, Shipyard, Budweiser and Miller Lite. You can get a glass of $5 house wine and bottles of red or white for $13-27. Cocktails include Mai Tai, Zombie, Karate Chop, Saketini and Plum Punch for $6-6.50.
The sake list is a little small for the rice wine connoisseur, but for the average schmo there's a fair range of sakes including the usual Ozeki - hot or cold - Nigori and Plum Wine. Even having a modest selection and big competition in the Japanese restaurant selection of Portland, this little restaurant and sushi bar is a hot number on Commercial Street.
Comments
B. Frank, any negative comment I wrote in this review is based on my
comparison of local sake and alcohol selections. Sapporo's selection of sake
and alcohol pale in comparison to other local sushi bars. I'm not reviewing
the food - I'm reviewing the alcohol. For the record, I'm over 30, I don't
booze in the Old Port and I spew on steakhouses.
April 16, 2009 03:33 PM


Going to a wonderful Japanese restaurant to critique its bar offerings is like going to Greenville and griping about the limited number of sidewalks. Sapporo's food can only be described as ethereal. Take their salad, even. Where other Japanese restaurants (do I hear Fuji anyone?) will drown browning chunks of iceburg lettuce, Sapporo offers up crisp greens decked with tiny bird's nests of shredded carrots and daikon. Their sushi is gorgeous, fresh and colorful. Portion sizes are never disappointing. And presentation and atmosphere are elegant and restful.
I am guessing that you are under 30 and enjoy the Old Port boozing. You go for the cheap steakhouse theatrics that some Japanese restaurants offer up.
Sapporo, you may learn as you mature, is actually the real deal. May your tastes improve with time.
Posted by B. FrankApril 13, 2009 10:43 AM