Since going to Norm East End Grille's for BBQ is like watching the Sea Dogs play or hopping the ferry to Peaks in this town, it may not be immediately seen as a place to go get your libation on. After all, those massive racks of ribs have a way of overshadowing what's on tap and/or occupying all the space inside you to put anything.

For this reason, I figure it warrants a closer look. Just who is the supporting cast for the star bar-b-que? What are the pieces of Norm's popularity, and can a well-meaning visitor pull off a "couple of drinks" followed by a massive mess of food?

I notice the steep, bright green steps up to the bar area, worn in the center from the love of a lot of hungry feet. I'm a big fan of the upstairs bar anyway, it always feels removed from the rest of the world just enough. The lights are nice and low, but the bar glows neon, which allows the room's gift for contrasts to shine.

For all of Norm's exuberance on the dinner plates, there's just as much discretion to be noted in the décor. Between two ancient brick walls, there are four, framed movie posters (Trainspotting, Raging Bull, Usual Suspects and 1968's Bullitt with mean Steve McQueen) presented neatly in a line. The tables in the dining area are armed for sauce and stains, proudly wearing their red and white checkers, and practically screaming "Eat on me!"

The bar though, is like the really quiet, interesting guy standing behind the loud, drunk popular guy at a party. You know how some bars are stocked like they're prepping for Prohibition? Norm's has one of each of all the bottles you could want, but not two. They make feisty creative drinks with their own names, like the East End Margarita ($7), and pour Maine beers out of subtle, central taps at the elbow of the corner bar. The highlight of the whole scene? The tunes.

When I hear a favorite indie song that has no business playing in a restaurant, bartender Chris points to his iPod and grins "Yup, we're the jukebox. We pick the playlists." The staff feeds off the personal touch, busy bustling about but whistling and humming all the while. Sure beats Don Henley wailing on Sirius at Chili's. As an added counterpoint to the typical head-bangers sports bar, the lone, muted television is tuned to the Discovery Channel. Much respect to the bar that treats its TVs as an ornament, rather than a focal point, isn't the whole point of drinking so we can interact easier?

Of course, Norm's is Norm's, so after a couple brews, my buddy and I throw our own discretion to the dogs and courageously go halfies on the BBQ Sampler ($17.95), a monster of 2 rib racks, sausage, a half-chicken, steak tips, and the trusty palette cleansing cornbread.

The secret of this place is that BBQ is the absolute best when it comes to late night munchies, and getting a grip. If exercise and a healthy diet add years to your life, better than pizza, burgers, or nachos, Norm's no-joke applewood smoked meats add drinks to your night.