Brunswick's trustiest watering hole: Joshua's

Feeling like a respite from the same ol' Portland scene, I make a break northward, headed for a college town tavern I'd heard a lot about. After about a 37 minute drive, I hit Brunswick's wide Missouri-like Maine Street, trolling past at a crisp 12 miles an hour trying to find "123," the address where the village's trustiest watering hole, Joshua's, lies in wait.

The tavern is quietly massive when I find it, unassuming on the outside, but occupying the better part of a city block. It's warm, with the amber glow I'd hoped for, on the inside, perfect for seeking shelter from snow or sleet. In the room around the bar itself (there's a great restaurant attached) there are tall ancient brick walls, meeting at odd places a bit like you'd expect in a museum.

Fitting, as Joshua himself is not some well-to-do Bowdoin grad as I'd suspected, but in fact the estimable Union army general Joshua Chamberlain, by whom hills were taken by blood and courage, and for whom great beers have been brewed. The dream of a menu, bursting with ample pubgoer favorites, also honors the former Governor with such options as the Fredericks Burger (with Salsa and Monterey Jack, $8.50), and (you guessed it) the Gettys Burger (with Bacon and Cheddar, $8.50).

The Grand Old Man of Maine also graces the cover of the menu, and his spirit seems to guard the mood of the place. The staff is smiling, but has that sense of urgency with their service. When our cheerful waitress recommends the made-in-house blue cheese dressing, I can tell she's doing it whole-heartedly, which further reflects her respect for the menu and her job. I actually take her word on everything, starting with a delicious, frosty cold Gritty's Halloween to go with the Crabmeat Stuffed Mushrooms ($7).

The dark brew matches the rich, indulgent app perfectly with fresh crabmeat generously overflowing the caps.

When the weather allows, there is an upstairs room/open space that offers a beautiful overlook of Maine Street, a nice college perch for a people-watching cocktail, but tonight the inside decorations are center stage. There's a sort of winter-sports/local breweries theme, the bar is covered in vintage early 90's bumper stickers and used license plates.

It seems the ideal place to come in from great adventures in the Maine woods and start telling increasingly tall tales. With the World Series on, I swing for the fences with the Grilled Rueben ($8). This is the ultimate test for any dining establishment that dares offer the king of sandwiches. Marble rye? Check. Sauerkraut out the sides? Ok, ok. An inch at least of not too dry corned beef? This is getting strange.

Joshua's passed the age-old Rueben tests without lifting a finger. I stop thinking so hard or trying so hard, and just kind of let go a little bit, order another Gritty's. Geez, what's the rush? If you find yourself in Brunswick in a raging snowstorm, remember the warmth of Joshua's. All you have to do is duck in, and you can't really go wrong. They'll take care of you from there.