Great beers and a place to check the scores: Nosh, Portland

The smile sets in the moment I step in. What's "in" after all? The first signs of a well-designed new operation on Congress Street are the massive windows that form the left side wall.

There's the actual patio for outdoor seating, but they also have windows and doors open, creating a hopping scene maybe more San Diego than Portland. Bartender and co-owner Matt Moran extends a hearty handshake and warm smile. It's a long space, 3 pretty-penny flatscreens hang from beautiful, old New England brick, and then the seating halts abruptly at the deli sandwich board to end them all.

Not only are there abundant options, there are strange twists and turns and new takes in almost every ingredient list. Take the Pig Belly Reuben (10.50, roast pork belly, cheddar, caramerlized onions. Russian dressing, grilled rye) or the Local One (9, grilled, marinated and pickled vegetables, goat cheese, tomato, greens, romesca sauce, on white).

Matt's busy behind the bar, however, and so's Nosh. He directs me to chef and co-owner Jason Loring, who, like so many successful restaurateurs, has simple intentions for his new baby. "We just always wanted a laid back bar, with great beers, reliable food, and a place to check the scores."

Distilled to that, Nosh is thriving, and has been making believers out of old White Heart faithful since January. The beers are especially alluring. When I ask about the tap list worthy of a brew curator, Loring admits to a rich craft beer pedigree. For some time, he worked hand in hand with Eric Mechaud getting Novare Res to the beer temple of Portland status it holds today.

Loring is proud of his Novare Res experience, and why shouldn't he be? Nosh is like Novare Res's Burger and Fries arm, catering to those who like to mix hearty, well prepared foods with their strong ales.

One ear-catching carryover is great music. Nosh is serving up live, anthemic Bob Marley, causing me to liven myself up. On a night when the great Talib Kweli is passing through our little Port-town, Loring mentions there might be some indie hip-hop coming through the speakers on the late night.

Nosh has taken off with Port City Music Hall and other local venues emptying their hungry and thirsty guests out onto Congress Street. That's when it's time for the new king of the hill for beer, burgers and fries to exhort Portlandians to come in and taste what all the fuss is about.