A perfect lesson in beerology: The Lion's Pride

As a Novare Res devotee, I am a little hesitant to wander up to Brunswick and check out the fancy new brewpub and brewery, The Lions Pride, for fear of an unbeatable beer list that might compromise my loyalties.

From the outside, the place is charming but plain, tucked right off of Route 1 and 295 on Pleasant Street. Ducking in from a dry cold night, I soon realize I have nothing to fear. Novare Res is a killer place to hang out, with the best beer list in Portland. The Lion's Pride, a cousin to the world-famous Ebenezer's in Lovell, Maine, is an unmatched temple to a beverage of yeast-fermented malt and hop flavoring. And apricot flavoring, and fig, and coffee, and cherry, and herbs, and lemon. If you like beer, it's like taking your tongue on a date.

Inside these walls, the line between intoxication with booze and being drunk on love is decidedly blurred, being that staff and clientele alike adore the product being served.

Owners Jen Chris Lively wanted a sort of upgrade to their rustic, but remote beer tavern in Lovell. Time was ripe for expansion, Ebenezer's had been voted the best beer restaurant in the world by beeradvocate.com for five years in a row. So they chose Brunswick for their new project, not unaware that many educated young palettes on Bowdoin's campus lurked nearby. In fact, from the moment I walk in the door, I am given a perfect good lesson in beerology, starting with the 35 shining possibly Belgian craft beers. I recognize a spicy hop from my own brewery days on the large proud draft list, Simcoe, here in the Weyerbacher Double Simcoe. The bartender gives me that "you have chosen wisely" look from Indiana Jones 3.

The place definitely has a crush on the brew, down to a mountain dwarf that rules the central yellow lit home to the pint glasses. Or the sandwich list, the first four of which are named after famous breweries: The Chimay, Westmalle, Rochefort and Allagash. We're not talking turkey n'chedda as ingredients here. This is a dizzying array of slow braised pork shoulder, crispy shallots or artisanal beer cheese among many other similarly tantalizing pairings. It's a little surprising, you could sneak past the Lion's Pride if you're not careful on the road to the highway.

The tall, cherry gold big IPA type beer I ordered arrives and it is literally breathtaking. Some beers are overcoming that way. It made me want to stop in here every time I came to Brunswick, it was ice cold, grapefruit tart but with a strong herb finish. After a couple sips, wordlessly, the bartender brings me a small icewater with lemon. Nice touch, give the tongue a rinse and then get after it again.

This is a can't-miss winter getaway a short jump from southern Maine.
The Weyerbacher Double Simcoe, as delicious an experience as it was, put me back a hefty $8.56. When I scoff at this to the bartender, he smiles, and puts it this way: When you drink 2 watery, ricey $4 Bud Lites at different bar, your only getting 4.75 ABV, whereas with the one, slow sipping, toe tingling Double Simcoe you're getting the wallop of 9%. Pretty convincing, I nod with a sloppy, knowing look. Welcome to Brunswick, Lion's Pride. I'm not going anywhere for awhile. I'll learn everything you've got about this blessed brew.