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Jim Britt's life revolves around food, chef-prepared or from his own kitchen. Beyond the blog, Jim is a partner a gBritt PR in Portland, which specializes in lifestyle public relations.


October 14, 2007
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My dad, like me, loves a good meal

I traveled to Florida last week to spend time with my mom and dad. My dad's not well. About all he had the energy for was sitting and chatting. We talked about a lot of things, most of which were memories. My four brothers and sister have covered a lot of ground -- so we had tons of stuff to laugh and cry about.

At least once during each of our conversations, talk would wander to memories of his childhood and my ancestors. He and my mother grew up in West Moreland County, in Western, PA., in coal mining villages -- he's from Crow's Nest, she's from Carpenter's Town. It was a ton of fun listening to new stories about his friends -- Woody, Ding, Joe and so many others. As always, we also talked about the places he loved to eat. My dad, like me, loves a good meal.

The "Hot Dog Shop" (Warren Ohio)
The earliest food memory that my father and I share is the "Hot Dog Shop." Warren is my home town. It's where my mom and dad moved to from PA to work and raise kids. The "Dog Shop" is a Midwest landmark. I don't think anyone can pass by without stopping in for dogs, fries and a Coke. Its straight out of American Graffiti architecture is something to behold. It's a circular brick building topped with a brightly colored shingles and a gigantic rotating hot dog resting in a bun.

It seemed to me that the Dog Shop was always packed. Of course we usually went there after football games or some other big night on the town. We'd sit at the counter -- I'd order a hot dog with ketchup, side of fries and a chocolate shake. He would order two dogs with chili and cheese, a side of fries and a Coke. Our orders would be up in a matter of minutes. We agreed wholeheartedly that there is no place in the world that can match the wonderful flavors of those hot dogs and fries.

"Alberini's" (Niles Ohio)
Not very far down Route 422 from the Dog Shop is Alberini's Restaurant. This landmark is known far and wide for its excellent quality Italian cuisine. My father talked about how he and my mom would go there with friends for cocktails and dinner on weekend nights -- I'd be home with an older brother or another sitter. Once in a while I'd get to come along for a fancy white tablecloth dining experience.

My dad's Alberini's order was always veal-parm. To this day, veal-parm is his dish of choice. He's never been politically correct or any sort of adventurous eater. These traits, and many others, are what make him special. Instead of salad, he'd opt for Gilda Alberini's famous Italian Wedding Soup. Memories of dipping fresh Italian rolls into that savory chicken broth brought a welcome smile to his face.

Our memory of Alberini's included more than meals # it's the place where we gathered for family weddings, anniversaries and funerals. We met there before big games and after graduations. I worked there for four years as a server during college. According to my dad, without Alberini's "I'd be in jail." He's referring to the fact that Alberini's is where I met my wife, Gillian. She worked there during college, too. We fell in love with good wine and each other. (Gillian and I have shaped our PR business on principals introduced to us by Richard and Gilda Alberini -- they put family first, supported their hardworking staff and worked tirelessly to make certain that no aspect of the business came up short in the eyes (or stomachs) of customers.)

As my dad dined on truly lousy hospital food last week, thoughts of Gilda's soup and veal parm were almost too much to manage.

"Mahoning Valley Pizza"
My hometown of Warren Ohio is located in what's called the "Mahoning Valley." This is steel country. Today it's the "rustbelt." Steel made in Warren (and in Niles, Gerard and Youngstown) supported the automotive industry. The area's mostly working-class population consisted mostly of Greeks, Italians, Irish and Polish. A standard Midwest town, I guess. Warren was and remains a wonderful ethnic melting pot. My dad and I agreed that of the vast assortment of delectable ethnic flavors or aromas, fresh baked pizza wins first place. The pizza of the Mahoning Valley cannot be outdone. (Sorry Portland Pie.)

My dad's favorite pizza is "Mr. R's." They served it thick and topped with tangy plum tomato sauce. He loved the way they served pies with small, chunky cut pieces of pepperoni. Their cheese was a flavorful locally made mozzarella. Unlike my dad, I don't have a singular best pizza -- my favorites changed as I grew up. As a child I loved "Carmen's." Carmen's was located at the end of our block (on Oak Knoll S.E.). I used to walk there with my dad. We'd carry home big white boxes filled with sheets of pizza for the whole family. What a wonderful and carefree time that was. The crust was thick and the sauce was spicy sweet. I'll never forget racing to grab a corner square -- two sides of crust was a special treat for a curst lover like me.

During middle school and high school I ate "white pizza," at "Leo's." Leo's crust was similar to Carmen's, thick and chewy. White pizza toppings though, are altogether unique. No red sauce here, just garlic, olive oil, basil, oregano, thyme, mild mozzarella and sliced banana peppers (cubanelle peppers). The mildly oily fragrant spicy flavor of white pizza is wonderful -- I miss it dearly.

I tried hard to convince my dad that Leo's topped Mr. R's. No chance. For him, Mr. R's can never be replaced. I could go on but I'll stop here. I'm getting hungry.

Thanks for letting me tell you a little about some of my food loving history -- eating dogs and fries at the Hot Dog Shop; veal parm, wedding soup and the romance of Alberini's; and pizzas of Mahoning Valley. I hope it reminded you of some of your childhood favorites.

Cheers.

Posted by jbritt at 09:54 PM
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Comments

Salute' Jim
Not sure how I stumbled on your blog/article but truly appreciated your descriptions of “food memories from Warren Ohio.
My wife and I just returned from Warren today (June 23, 2008) where she grew up basically right around the corner on Woodbine Ave. (two streets over from Oak Knoll)

My wife, like you, grew up loving Carmen’s Pizza and she too had no specific “BEST”.
She has always talked about Carmen’s It was everyday…, Mr. Rs next to the Elks where they went swimming was with friends from the pool and later there was sheet pizza at SunRise for a work lunch or maybe after work for a drink and a piece(s) for the way home.

We ate at the Hot-Dog Shoppe, on Saturday; As always the patrons stood against the wall waiting for a place to sit. You’re correct there is no other way to describe it other than a “MIDWEST LANDMARK” (not to be picky but it really is the Hot-Dog Shoppe)

Like you and your family, we also enjoy the food heritage of the area and can’t think of a better way to show our kids how good wholesome food is meant to be enjoyed.
Lots of food—Lots of talk—A few spirits & Lots of love

As we sat at the Hot Dog Shoppe the other day, there were three generations being served but it was though time stood still and all of us were 15 or 16 years old having the best damn cheese fries and a couple of dogs with cheddar and sauce for the very first time.

Thanks for sharing your memories

Carl & Lisa

PS We also loved Alberini’s my mother-in-law and father-in-law always raved about the veal and/or eggplant parm too.

Posted by Carl Armanini & Lisa Tomlin
June 23, 2008 09:39 PM

Wow Jbritt! I read your comments about the HotDog Shoppe and Alberini's and couldn't post better. You know, they have PBS specials about HotDog places around the country. Granted Nathan's and a Chicago Style dog from several top places in Chicago (Portillo's, Gold Coast Dogs etc.), but nothing will ever compare to the HotDog Shoppe in Warren, Ohio. Like you, one of my earliest memories was standing in line, outside the original location, holding my father's hand. The original location was about where the parking lot now extends toward town and was just a store front. I don't think they even had seats to sit down as all I remember was take out.

Like many of the other Hotdog institutions featured on PBS, the HD Shoppe has it's own lingo. Their signature dog comes with chili sauce and chopped onions. This is known as "with everything". If you say you want "2 with everything", the waitresses know you are a local. Oh, and if you have ever had a red pop in your life and enjoyed it, get one here. It will bring you back instantly. The fries are fresh cut, plentiful, and fantastic. Can't comment on the burgers because in 45 years going there, I never had one. Oh, and check out the menu board ( there are no menus ) at the prices. Unbelievably cheap! It's like it's on walk down memory lane.

Arrive there by 11:30 AM for lunch, 4:30 PM for dinner or you will be waiting for awhile. Oh, the mechanics of waiting are also part of the lore. Most seats are individual around 2 rap around bars, with boths on the side. If you are waiting with say 3 people, and 2 seats open together with a person next to with an open chair on the other side, ask politely, and that person will move to make room for all 3. It's expected as part of good manners. People are naturally friendly and will move a seat or 2 to accomodate those waiting. No fancy maitre d necessary, thanks so much!

PBS, you got do a piece on this place! I mean come on, 60 years and going stronger than ever. Who can argue with that?

Alberini's

Like you, have been going there since I was kid. All our family's celebrations including countless birthdays, anniversaries, and even my mother's retirement party took place there. The pasta is world class. The dinner rolls home made. The pizza is outstanding. We knew the original Mr. and Mrs. Alberini who opened the restaurant when it was just part of the front of the current restaurant. My parents still eat there at least weekly. Gilda is a saint and a God send. Now that Richard Alberini has past, the business is in the hands of Gilda and her son Chook. And it appears they are making all the right moves. Go there and you won't be disappointed, I guarantee you!

Pizza around Warren

While I left in 1985, through the years, there were many places that had outstanding pizza. Carmen's, Sunrise (Deepdish is great!), Prince's across from Harding High School, and Alberini's were great. Haven't had Carmen's in a long time, but Deep dish from Sunrise is still good as Alberini's is too. Oh the memories!

Honorable Mention in Warren:

Uncle Nick's Greek Fried Chicken

If you like Fried Chicken and you like Garlic, you just found heaven. Tasty, very tasty indeed.

Best old man's shot and a beer bar:

Cafe 22 at 2006 Youngstown Rd. SE. If you want to experience the most perfect blue collar, meet you after shift change, shot and a beer bar right out of the movie "The Deer Hunter" (Remember, that's where they all went to play pool and drink after they got off work?_), this is it. Mr cousin lived across the way and we used to go there and shoot pool, 'cause we could walk/stagger home. Owned in those days by a father/son team, it had $.75 Blatz drafts and buck and a half for a shot of whiskey. The whole place was frozen in time around 1956. Beware, though, they are wary of outsiders. Come in, order your shot/beer, be polite and don't swear. Just take in the the thought that your father or grandfather probably used to stop at a place like this.

Posted by CStrong
August 29, 2008 03:44 PM

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