November 09, 2006
The No-Go Cafe
If there is something new and improved about the new and improved Bintliff’s American Café on Portland Street, then I failed to find it the night I was there.
The interior is somewhat changed since my last visit about 6 years ago when I was a fledgling visitor to this city whose wondrous culinary highlights were only Back Bay Grill and Fore Street.
As to the décor it seemed more subdued, or perhaps my eye is more used to the kickshaws of decor found in too many restaurants around town.
The downstairs, with its several bar tables tucked into a corner, is almost cosmopolitan, like a Midtown lounge in a larger city.
But the action occurs upstairs. The wait staff should, however, be admired for having to gclimb those stairs from the first floor kitchen to the upper floor dining room.
When we arrived last night, rain soaked and grateful to be inside, those two tables were empty, and there was no one to greet us at the sign that says, “Please Wait to be Seated.” After a few minutes a waitress or hostess or employee, carrying several plates of bread for tables upstairs, said, “Follow me,” after inquiring if we had a reservation.
I liked the looks—well, sort of—of the upstairs dining room, though I suffer a bit from night blindness and it seemed too dark.
We were shown to one of many booths along the side, a nice large table fit for four which the two of us had to ourselves. The seating part of the booth is stationary—back to back to the booth behind us, like a train seat; the table itself is at least 18 inches away from one’s seating position so that there’s enough room between seating and table to accommodate a 25 pound turkey to fall through to the floor, which might have been amusing. I firmly held onto my napkin.
Still, I was open to giving this place every opportunity of benefit in lieu of doubt.
The menu is short and does change frequently. That night the entrée list failed to excite. For instance, there were two very similar items, crab cakes and squash and risotto cakes. One cake too many perhaps? There was paella, steak, chicken, scallops and the omnipresent macaroni and cheese.
What is it with macaroni and cheese being on so many otherwise formidable entrée menus around town? Are we all just a bunch of nostalgic ninnies who chefs feel crave this dish?
Perhaps it’s my childhood memories of dinner at home when I was growing up that make me look warily at this American volition. My family frequently ate out, which was always an adventure for one who grew up in Manhattan. But when my mother--who was not an accomplished cook or entrenched in housewifery—prepared dinner, she often served macaroni and cheese. It was one of her best efforts. She baked it in a Pyrex baking dish which resulted in a luscious crust forming on the sides, deliciously crunchy and rich. But it was served as a side, not a main meal, often with a main course favorite that she called Meatball Porcupine, a dreaded concoction that we all loathed. My mother loved it so we endured. Perhaps that’s why mac ‘n cheese (a hateful nickname) is so troublesome for me.
Bintliff’s could be one of those homey neighborhood places that one could like very much if the food was better. It doesn’t matter that it’s next door to one of the scariest looking bars in the city or that this little strip of Portland resembles the Bowery more than a friendly boulevard.
In any case, the wait staff is very affable and able, though our waiter also doubled as the bartender just as the hostess doubled up her duties.
OK. I’ll cut to the chase. Here’s what we ordered. My starter was spicy fried oysters and my main course was a Statler cut chicken breast. My companion had a mixed salad and, of all choices, the macaroni cheese, which was a mélange of various cheeses in a Guinness Stout base.
The dark whole wheat bread, several thick slices unceremoniously displayed on a plate, was served slightly warm. It was good, though the crusts had been burnt black, and the butter dish contained just enough butter in which to fry a small egg.
We ordered cocktails, very well made. And soon enough our first courses arrived. My oysters suffered from being tepid. I searched in vain for one that was even room temperature. They were heavily breaded and didn’t offer much punk from spice and were accompanied by three little dishes of dipping sauces, whose derivation, except for the mustard, I couldn’t quite grasp.
My friend’s salad looked very appealing, a long thin slice of cucumber formed into a round mold in which the varied ingredients were held high-- in a sort of homage to Alfred Portale of NY’s Gotham Bar and Grill fame who built his reputation on the height of his presentations.
The more oysters I ate produced a fine veil of grease in my mouth. Since the chef hails from the former Scales whose fried oysters were excellent, these were at best apocryphal.
We ordered another round of cocktails if only as palate cleansers. When presented, my main course chicken immediately seemed to say, “Don’t eat me.”
I suppose there was no offending taste but it was just plain boring, a whopping, boring, dreary looking breast plopped on a bed of mashed potatoes with some green leafy thing splayed across the plate.
My friend’s macaroni, not a large portion, but that was OK, was pronounced good. I unceremoniously took a whiff and a forkful and didn’t like the overwhelming taste of the Guinness.
We ordered dessert. Quite frankly I don’t remember what my dinner companion had, but my pumpkin cheesecake was memorable for all the wrong reasons.
We paid our bill, an easy $85 before tip. The entrees are not expensive, all under $20. We thanked our waiter who was very able, walked downstairs to our car, which was still there, and drove off into the pouring rain, wherein my mildly annoying night blindness made driving somewhat difficult though not as trying as dinner.
Comments
You haven't been there for 6 years and you went there for dinner? Seems a bit odd to be reviewing a meal service that they aren't renowned for without noting their strength. Back Bay equals steak, Fore Street equals "I've got to impress my business clients", Bintliff's equals brunch.
Posted by Derek TaylorNovember 10, 2006 09:00 AM
why do all restaurant reviewers seem like pretentious bitter people? there's really no need for it.. you shouldn't be a jerk when toying the livliehoods of mainers.
Posted by rayNovember 10, 2006 11:08 AM
I've been to Bintliff's several times and have been disappointed each and everytime a Mainer or not the man speaks the truth.
Posted by rachelNovember 10, 2006 02:02 PM
I didn't even know Bintliffs served supper, and I lived right on Mechanic St. for four+ years. Bintliffs is well know for their outstanding breakfast and lunch!
Posted by SteveNovember 10, 2006 02:03 PM
John, you should have stopped for a cheeseburger at Ricki's where the service is good and the beer is always cold.
Thanks for supporting "Buy Local"
November 10, 2006 06:49 PM
Well, I hope I'm at the right place. I had dinner this past Saturday with my husband at Windows on the Water in Kennebunkport and it was incredible. The server mentioned that several people had written into Food for Thought about their favorable experiences but I can't seem to find any list here.
Anyway, I had the lobster salad with a corn blanket that was absolutely over the top delicious, my husband had a bowl of the lobster bisque which he literally licked clean. For dinner I had the wild mushroom maccaroni and cheese with scallops which is probably one of the top 3 meals I've had in Maine, my husband had the rabbit and duck cassoulet and he again ate every morsel. We had one of the dessert specials that was 3 little chocolate cakes with a luscious chocolate ganache over the top and they were presented like little swans on the plate. Our server was very pleasant and professional. He suggested a wine we had never heard of and we loved it. All in all we would go back in a heart beat.
I hope this is the correct place to write about our experience, if not I appologize.
Carly
November 13, 2006 05:19 PM
My husband and I got engaged at Windows on the Water 6 years ago and we go back on our anniversary each year. It is always very good, sometimes out of this world good. A few years ago the owner had an accident and wasn't able to cook for some time and the person he hired to fill his shoes did not live up to the calling. John, the owner is back at 100% and he has surrounded himself with a fantastic chef and the two of them are doing some amazing food. Our anniversary is at the end of October, and again this year it was spent celebrating at Windows and it was without doubt the best meal we have ever had. The best at Windows, the best anywhere, it really was that fantastic. They are doing some wonderful old classics like Boston baked beans and Macaroni and Cheese as well as their specialties of Filet Mignon and Lobster. They also have this section called Culinary Chemistry were they are doing some very interesting things like White Chocolate with Caviar, Fresh Melon Caviars and an Asian Lobster Salad with a Corn Blanket that Carly mentioned earlier. If you are looking for someplace interesting, fun and fantastic you should really check out WIndows on the Water.
Posted by Tammi & CarlNovember 15, 2006 01:15 PM
John,
If you expect readers to respect your (haughty) opinions and/or take you seriously (I'm not convinced that the two are mutually exclusive), perhaps you should raise the level of professionalism present in your articles. The snobby and blantantly rude tone of this article is quite offputting. As a new Portland resident, I've visted Bintliff's American Cafe twice for dinner, upon recommendations from several satisfied customers. Each time, the service was warm and attentive, the menus inventive and the food impressive. I also take issue with your snide comments regarding servers performing double duty as hosts and bartenders; if you were seated politely and promptly and your drinks were enjoyable, why bother to make an underhanded comment on the matter? Focus your article; tell us what you thought of your food, not the amount of leg space I can expect to find at my table if I visit. I can't remember the last time I read such an unprofessional review; it will in no way affect the way I feel about the establishment.
November 16, 2006 09:27 PM
I know that this has been covered ad nauseum but it helps to reiterate.
John is not the restaurant reviewer for the Press Herald, he writes a "dining diary" blog. It is a collection of his thoughts and ideas about dining experiences in the Portland area.
This is a place that he should feel free to be as "snobby and blatantly rude" as much as he wants - it is a welcome change to the sycophantic reviews that have appeared in this paper for years.
To be honest I have lived in Portland for almost 18 years and been to Blintiff's about a half a dozen times. Every time I have found it to be an overfed messy experience that has never made me feel enticed to return.
November 17, 2006 09:30 AM
Right on to the no-name post of 9:30 AM. 100% correct.
Posted by blankNovember 20, 2006 02:05 PM
I'm really glad to see that someone from the wealthiest part of the country comes into Portland, ME, and totally defaces our shops and restaurants. All of these judgements are made from the mind of a prententious New Yorker who has never had to work at a restaurant or in the food service business at all. John, if you had any dignity, you would realize that these are hard working people, and to the hearts and minds of many native Mainers, your entertainment column is useless. We realize that here in Portland, your dollar goes much longer, but for you to publicly humiliate our community's businesses is unacceptable and unwanted. Thanks John, for all of your futile opinions, and please consider my words in your next column.
P.S. John at Bintliff's is an excellent chef.
Posted by Native Mainer from PortlandNovember 23, 2006 01:27 PM
I thought I gave a very candid view of Bintliff's. I liked a lot of things and commented on what I thought could be better, saying
bintliff's could be one of those homey neighborhood one could like if the food was better...
November 25, 2006 01:42 PM
I'm not a snobby New Yorker, and my dad owned and ran a small pizzeria for decades. I made and rolled more dough than you can imagine. The recent dinner I had at Bintliff's was, frankly, really mediocre and quite expensive. The "steak" I ordered had the taste and texture of cube steak, not the rib eye allegedly sold to me (at a rib eye price). I've had good brunches at Bintliffs, but John's take on the dinner matched my own. We need candid reviews like this so we know how to spend our hard earned Maine dollars.
Posted byNovember 25, 2006 07:10 PM
Subscribe
...have you covered Katahdin?...if so I can't find it...we've enjoyed several meals there...would love to get your take on what I think is interesting food in a fun environment...
Posted by stephenNovember 9, 2006 01:45 PM