July 29, 2009
Lack of Grace
I don't know what to say about Grace, the church turned restaurant on Chestnut Street in downtown Portland. There's been a lot of chatter about this project, articles on its transformation from a neglected worship hall revamped as dining hall.
Architecturally it is impressive, but to me it just doesn't go far enough in taking advantage of its dramatic interior.
No doubt it is probably one of the largest restaurant spaces in the state of Maine, where most dining establishments are modest in size if not downright miniscule. Yet, as with many eateries in the state, the high quality of the food makes up for any lack of elbow room or ambiance.
Perhaps it's too early in its 3-week history to assess such a place. But I think there are some issues that just don't pass muster at the moment.
The first bit of confusion is entering the restaurant. Once you finally find a place to park without resorting to a garage, you come upon an unfinished entry hall, without any sign or anyone in attendance showing one where to go. At first we thought we were in the wrong place, walking into halls that lead to rooms under construction. Was it a mirage or did this Grace really exist? But finally someone arrived and pointed us upstairs to the main dining hall.
It's a fabulous space, with a circular bar as the focal point in the middle of the room. Yet the arrangement and the overall décor was lackluster--small tables for two or four along the periphery making up banquette seating and then tiny tables for two lodged against beams in the middle of the room, looking very haphazard. The room should have been brightened up with crisp white tablecloths--something to break up the enormous space, and lots of it, which seems to be wasted. I was looking for bustle and style and all I saw were a lot of sneakered, flip-flop clad tourists badly dressed to boot--and ill mannered, or were they Mainers?. If the room is meant for people watching (a hated term unless the place is packed with bold-face names or gorgeous bodies everywhere), there was no one that I wanted to ogle.
I remember when Evangeline first opened and we went there to find Greater Portland well dressed, almost glamorous, local swells, such as they are, mixed with neighborhood locals. The place at least had buzz. The only buzz so far at Grace might be a doorbell summoning a doorman to show diners the way.
We were shown to one of these Siberian tables, hugging a wooden beam. Not acceptable. I pointed to a banquette on the far side of the room already set for two, and our hostess obliged. The table arrangement in the room would have been far better to have more of them in the middle, larger and giving the room a sense of drama if not order. There's also an upstairs gallery, which I visited after dinner to say hello to friends dining up there. I liked that room.
The service, by the way, is excellent and friendly, though I thought our waitress's shtick about the menu was sophomoric and gratuitous. She went on about how the menu is straightforward, everything on it being fresh that day. Well, wouldn't one expect no less?
As for the menu choices I was a bit nonplussed. For starters there were oysters, scallop tartare, a Canadian style pork pate with mixed beets, salad and soup choices.. Main course choices included lamb, pasta, fish and beef and duck. I couldn't decide between the duck breast, served over quinoa and with a ginger jelly or the wild salmon, noisettes of salmon that were smoked and then sautéed
I chose the salmon and my dinner companion selected the goat cheese gnocchi. For starters I had the Pork Creton, a very intense pate, and my friend had the scallop tartare.
We didn't order wine, and I didn't scan the list so I won't comment on it. We each had one cocktail.
The pate is served in a charming little vessel, a sort of miniature Mason jar. Its layer of fat covering the pate was hard to remove to reach the meat inside. But once I did the flavor was excellent; the mixed beets that were served with it were delicious but too al dente, bordering on uncooked. I would have preferred a little less crunch. My friend enjoyed the tartare. I didn't taste it. It didn't look that appealing to me visually.
The salmon was a mistake. What arrived was three noisesttes of salmon, which were supposed to have a glaze, which I couldn't detect. But it was like eating orange block of sawdust--overly smoked fish, dry and overpowering. I finished one out of three. It might have made a better first course with one noissete rather and moistened with an herbaceous crème fraiche or spicy mustard. Speaking of mustard, the prepared mustard served with the pate was wonderful.
We were about to order dessert but I remembered that I had made a peach cobbler the night before and it seemed more appealing to have dessert at home. Their pastry chef was hailed as someone from a well known restaurant, Acquavit, in New York on East 55th Street, which I had been to ages ago when it first opened but haven't been back since.
I wondered why a highly regarded pastry chef would come from New York to Portland, Maine? Well why indeed do we all flock to Maine? For the equanimity of its populous or its natural, gorgeous charms?
The menu is not large, and I didn't find it particularly appealing. In all the press I read, the establishment is meant as a casual eatery, with a casual menu. First mistake. Why devise a casual dining hall in a serious space?
I can't tell what it's supposed to be. Give us luxe or give us down-home. But some middling enterprise in a second skin that's neither here nor there is perplexing. I think the place needs some sort of direction rather than preening as a derelict church structure transformed into a pristine restaurant. It's like look at me now. OK. I'm looking. Now perform.
Comments
Snobby and unproofed. I stopped reading.
Posted by MoniqueJuly 29, 2009 11:23 PM
What a crap review. Talk about a lack of Grace. Try an editor, for crying out loud. I usually appreciate a good review, of which this one was not, regardless of the outcome. To hell with an editor, get a clue.
Posted by RedwoodRedJuly 30, 2009 12:21 AM
The Pastry Chef has worked recently at Per Se and Craft. She is also a native Mainer from the Portland area. The head chef has worked at AQUAVIT of New York.
July 30, 2009 02:01 AM
Great use of your brain with words like muster, lackluster, haphazard, periphery, siberian, gallery, noisettes, shtick, sophomoric, equanimity, populous, and perplexing!
Posted by BettyJuly 30, 2009 02:17 AM
Parking in the downtown area? It is almost all street parking, hourly lots, and garages, right? Or is there a parking lot that is free and is next to all the other Portland restaurants? Such as Fore Street, 555, Bar Lola, Corner Room, Grill Room, Front Room, Walter's, Evangeline, Street & Company, Vignola, and Farmer's Table. Go back to your glass house....MORON!
Posted by PumpkinJuly 30, 2009 02:33 AM
"or where they Mainers?" One of many grammar errors. And are you trying to insult Mainers? Good One! That's how you do it.
Posted by Um, what?July 30, 2009 02:37 AM
The problem, which you stated in your 4th paragraph, is that it is too early to review. This is a big problem with these blogs. Most of the people writing them have never run a restaurant or even worked in one. I will give Mr. Golden enormous credit for not blasting a place anonymously because at least he is not a coward hiding behind the internet. That said, I wish he had been more gentle in understanding the work in progress that is "Grace." I have not been, yet, but I am certain that the owners were pressured to get open by employees waiting to start working and bills that roll in all through constuction which always runs behind. No one puts that much time into making a beautiful space without caring a great deal about the patrons they hope to serve. Perhaps instead of a public blog, a quiet letter to the managers with your suggestions would have been more helpful. I do not know of an owner of a restaurant that does not take to heart all letters that someone takes the time to send them with ideas. A helping hand instead of a slap down is the kindest way to get the message across. And in the end, only kindness matters, really.
Posted by SusanJuly 30, 2009 02:49 AM
I can't figure out what John is supposed to be. Is he an illiterate reviewer with the grammar skills of a fourth grader or is he unimaginably snobbish New Yorker with a quick trigger to the thesaurus function of his computer. Regardless, we do know that his main objective in all of his reviews is to let us know how much we all suck in Maine.
For what its worth - the concept of Grace needs a lot of work - they should just make sure not to listen to Golden.
Posted byJuly 30, 2009 06:41 AM
To say nothing of writing a "review" and not even tasting all the stuff that comes to your table. Some people just shouldn't write--or pretend.
Posted by JoanJuly 30, 2009 07:07 AM
I do agree with most everything everyone has commented on, I do appreciate that someone involved with a Portland publication has the temerity to actually write a tough review rather than just another "fluff" piece. That being said, I think it's a poor review filled with hyperbole and "sophomoric" insights. I have been multiple times, and there certainly have been some great "oogling" opportunities. Well said "Um, What?" What is his point here?! Moron.
Table cloths to break up the monotony? Really? Perhaps they are trying to be environmentally conscious with the choice not to. But you wouldn't consider that John, would you?
July 30, 2009 08:40 AM
What a poorly written review. Who publishes without proof-reading first? Especially a review as pretentious as this one. Sorry, John, I just can't take you seriously.
Posted by ScientistJuly 30, 2009 09:20 AM
I find it a little bit disturbing that you skipped dessert for a restaurant REVIEW because you had cobbler at home. The whole point of writing a decent review is to test the waters and see what the restaurant has to offer in its entirety. I suggest you give Grace another shot in a few months, after the owners and employees have adjusted to their new home.
Posted by DaniJuly 30, 2009 10:40 AM
I have not eaten or had a beer here yet, but I like the space. When I read reviews written, I take them with a grain of salt and understand to each their own. I find that this was a lot of beating down one mans thoughts. Well anyways, their tap list is on our site if anyone is interested, at least they aren't charging an arm and a leg for some decent brews!
http://www.portlandtaps.com/bars/grace
--Caleb O'Connell
--http://www.portlandtaps.com
July 30, 2009 10:41 AM
Clearly, too early to judge this restaurant. I would think that a professional would know this. Now, if the reviewer returns, won't it be with a chip on his shoulder? I stopped reading because the article is too long anyway.
I went to brunch last Sunday with a party of 6. We all thought the food was delicious, the service perfect, and the atmosphere magnificent.
Most remarkable- live classical music! Barefoot Strings, a shockingly talented trio of 3 beautiful young women, charmed us with their sweet sound.
Grace, thank you, you have 6 fans here!
July 30, 2009 10:50 AM
Seriously, this is the worst restaurant review I had read in a long time...
Why not proof read, and lay off the thesaurus, and actually taste all the food on your table?
Posted by AnthonyJuly 30, 2009 11:17 AM
I cant believe you guys are surprised with the quality of this review - the best part of them is always how John gets ripped for being an idiot. Where's Brett Weir.
Posted by ryanJuly 30, 2009 02:22 PM
Paging Brett Weir is right! Who remembers John's Cole Farm review where he insulted the entire state?
Posted by I rememberJuly 30, 2009 03:08 PM
I think John managed to insult the state as a whole and the city of Portland specifically a couple times in this review:
"I was looking for bustle and style and all I saw were a lot of sneakered, flip-flop clad tourists badly dressed to boot--and ill mannered, or were they Mainers"
"Greater Portland well dressed, almost glamorous, local swells, such as they are..."
My favorite line has to be:
"Speaking of mustard, I the prepared mustard served with the pate was wonderful."
I know the guy is pompous and all, but is he really that great that as prepared mustard he tastes wonderful to himself. That my friends is an ego.
July 30, 2009 03:21 PM
Talk about harsh criticism....cut the guy a break. At least he isnt afraid to say that the place needs some work. It sounds like they opened a little too soon without a defined vision. Too bad as the idea was good but the lack of atmosphere may deter people from returning. Someone should re-review the place in a month or two...but John...I wouldnt bother unless you are a glutton for punishment.
Posted by ptownJuly 30, 2009 04:00 PM
I admire a reviewer that does not hide his identity...... but, wow you should have! Seriously..... it is very obvious how to get into the restaurant. It is in a church, did you expect the dining room to be in the basement?
Posted by RichardJuly 31, 2009 01:22 AM
The truth is I wrote this blog in a hurry and though I went over it as carefully as I could, some errors occurred like the unfortunate beets and prepared mustard, etc. But I must say these comments are really incredible. It's good to see that Mainers are not holding back and showing their fangs on cue.
Posted by john goldenJuly 31, 2009 08:19 AM
As a former restaurateur, one of the things that has always dismayed me, is these damn reviews. I have always thought that, in writing reviews, that you should be held to a kindness meter. It is a small person that points out our flaws and a great one that finds only the positive to write about, without the slaughter of someone else's hard work. I am sad that this is an acceptable practice. If you are going to take the time to write, it surely would be a great service to both the writer and to the person opening a local business in these harsh economical times, if you were to accentuate the positive and provide encouragement and support, instead of trying to take someone down with a level of superiority reserved for fanatics and little people. Shame on anyone that feels they can stand in judgment! Ben Franklin said that the power is in the pen. Indeed it is and you might do well to keep that in mind on any future reviews. Your words can make or break someone and you should practice what we were all taught as children. Don't say anything at all if you have nothing nice to say about someone. Shame on you Mister.......I would hope you treat your family and friends in a kinder manner.......If anyone at all is in search of a great reviewer, I hope you look me up!
Support Maine and our family of Mainers! We are hardworking resilient people with heart...and continue to squash the naysayers!
July 31, 2009 12:09 PM
It's unfortunate that I wrote this piece so quickly since I was leaving for a trip in a few hours. However, what I had to say was based on my experience--more of a diary of the experience than a typical review, which can sometimes be a lot of fluff anyway. If you don't like it then close the page rather than vent so venomously.
I suppose what bothers me most is the hostility of the anonymous comments. If you don't like what I've said, then close the page.
Posted by john goldenAugust 1, 2009 08:00 AM
Not only was it a pleasure to read this review for its entertainment value, but also to read the comments that follow. I wouldn't quit your day job John. Where we will dining be this week?
Posted by capelocalAugust 2, 2009 08:12 AM
Dear Cape Local--I've been dining at home--a lot cooler, easier and less taxing than gagging on public opinion. My next hatchet job will be a surprise.
Posted by john goldenAugust 3, 2009 02:44 PM
Beverly's mind set above is totally off the mark. There are countless places to read breathless fluff pieces on Portland's restaurant scene. Portland Magazine, Port City Life and Downeast Magazine do nothing except print glowing articles about each restaurant they visit. It doesn't help the restaurants as nobody believes them. A little criticism is healthy for the chefs so they don't get so wrapped into the breathless press from the other sources. I have no problem with John's criticism of the places he eats. His problem is constant need to denigrate the people of Maine at any chance he gets. If you read back through his reviews he seems to make at least one sarcastic dig of the people of the state he chooses to live in or visit. John, if you don't like the people here - then as you said - turn the key and drive your car back to the Hamptons.
Posted byAugust 3, 2009 03:36 PM
When I commented the other day, I had not yet been to "Grace." Tonight, a group of us has the pleasure of dining in this beautiful space. There were unusual choices for the adventurer in the group, and more comfortable choices for me.
The appetizers were great. We all tasted each other's, so we had a nice selection to judge. The prices were very reasonable for everything. The entrees offered a wide range of choices to please all of us. I ordered the hanger steak, which even though I ordered it med well, (it was cooked perfectly) the steak was so tender I could cut it with a fork. The sauce over it was full of flavor. The potatoes were creamy & amazing . I do not know how the green beans were cooked, but they are the best I have ever had. They were just the right combination of crisp & soft & seasoning. Desserts were crazy good. Perfect ending to the meal. Again, we tasted each others to fully assess the food. I cannot remember enjoying a meal so much. Our waitress was flawless in her service. I know you thought the space to big or tables too spread out, but that was a great feature. I loved not backing into the person behind me at another table when I pushed my chair out. I loved being able to hear my friend's conversations without shouting, and not feeling like other people might be disturbed by our talking. The whole room had a wonderful festive energy. I think you should go back, try some different things on the menu, relax & enjoy this lovingly restored space and fabulous food. Concentrate on the positives not the glitches and you'll live longer. I plan on telling everyone how great it was.
August 5, 2009 05:46 AM
I haven't been to Grace, so I won't comment on the review. However, if readers of this blog want to read some harsh reviews, go read the Sunday Telegram archives from the late 80's, when one "Michael Robinson" (no idea if that was his real name) was the reviewer. About the only place you'll find one of his reviews now is in the vestibule of The Roma (I hope it comes back), but they were always worth reading. I think he got canned after he completely trashed the Downs Club.
Posted by MarkAugust 5, 2009 08:19 AM
I haven't been to Grace, so I won't comment on the review. However, if readers of this blog want to read some harsh reviews, go read the Sunday Telegram archives from the late 80's, when one "Michael Robinson" (no idea if that was his real name) was the reviewer. About the only place you'll find one of his reviews now is in the vestibule of The Roma (I hope it comes back), but they were always worth reading. I think he got canned after he completely trashed the Downs Club.
Posted byAugust 5, 2009 08:32 AM
I blame maine today for publishing this hackjob. If you want to trash a restaurant, go to chowhound or egullet, I don't want to read a review that is a review of one appetizer and one entree. Diss Mainers again at your own risk John Golden! *fistshake
Posted by Dr. DrunkensteinAugust 6, 2009 12:38 PM
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Hmm. I haven't been, I'm a little apprehensive --
But the reviewer lost me when they misspelled 'beets'.
Sorry. Call me pedantic -- but if the article is about attention to detail, and this slips by...
Posted by henryJuly 29, 2009 08:40 PM