Near Dewey's on Commercial Street, The Salt Exchange restaurant opened its door this past Friday. The new eatery is the work of the husband and wife team of Charles and Martha Bryon. I stopped in this morning before they opened for lunch to scope things out.

Here's Martha Bryon, Chef Jacob Jasinski and Bar Manager Erin Compton. They're standing in front of the awesome cherry bar that was crafted by Maine College of Art professor Jamie Johnston. I absolutely love the space's modern design scheme, particularly the unexpected lime green ceiling.

The restaurant features an open kitchen and a main dining room that seats 45, which can be used for private functions. In a month or so, bar seats will be pulled up to this counter and the diners who reserve them will be treated to special prix fixe menus and conversations with the chef.

Wanting to stand out from other fine dining establishments in town, the Bryons and Chef Jasinski are only serving appetizer-sized meals. Be sure to call them small plates, and not tapas.

"Tapas is not what we are, although we have some Spanish-inspired food," Martha explained.

She calls the cuisine New New England, with an emphasis on local and organic ingredients. Some of the current menu offerings include: spiced Maine coast cioppino with Casco Bay fish, shellfish & grilled sourdough crostini ($12); Pemaquid oysters with lemon celeriac cream & hazelnut ($7 or $12); local baby spinach with tempura Great Hill blue, grapes and saba dressing ($8); spice rubbed lamb with eggplant tart & garden beans ($15) and Wolfe's Neck Farm shoulder steak, sweet and sour cherries & crisp potatoes ($14).

Sharing is encouraged and the portion sizes are such that two or three items should be the equivalent of a traditional entree. Reservations are accepted, although not necessary, and anyone is welcome to belly up to the bar for a drink. Look for sidewalk seating in July.

The Salt Exchange is located at 245 Commercial St., Portland. It is open for lunch Mon-Sat from 11 am-2:30 pm. Dinner is served Mon-Thur from 5-9 and Fri-Sat from 5-10 pm. The bar stays open until 11 pm Mon-Thur and until midnight Fri-Sat. For reservations, call 347-5687.