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Pets
General
Information
Gerbils
A gerbil is a mouse-sized animal with a 10
centimeter body and an eight centimeter tail. The
average life span for gerbils is four to six years.
They come from North Africa and central Asian deserts
and are also known as Mongolian desert mice. They have
been captive bred since the 1960's. Their diet is
omnivore. They eat commercial gerbil mix containing
seed, nuts and pellets, fresh fruits, vegetables, hay,
and on occasion small pieces of raw meat or mealworms.
There are many positive characteristics about gerbils.
They are sociable, seldom bite, very active, curious,
and adventurous both day and night, and they are very
clean. The negative aspects about owning a gerbil is
that they require a habitat that allows for ample
daily exercise. Small, fast moving animals can be
difficult for young children to handle. They can
nibble on fingers and be easily hurt if squeezed.
Gerbils are easy to lose if they escape from their
habitat. Gerbils are best kept in pairs of same sex
from birth. They adapt best when raised in a social
environment and must have items to chew to wear down
constantly growing teeth. Their habitat requires
plenty of room and nest building material as well as a
medium for burrowing. Gerbils require a warm, dry
environment with a temperature range of 18 to 26
degrees Celsius.
Guinea Pigs
Guinea Pigs have an average life span of five to
seven years. Within that time, they grow to
approximately 750 grams to 1 kilogram, and about 20 to
30 centimeter in length. Peru is the origin of guinea
pigs, but they have been domesticated for over 5,000
years. A guinea pig is a herbivore, eating only fresh
fruits, vegetables, hay, and special commercial
pellets containing vitamin C. Guinea pigs are
sociable. They seldom bite and have unique
personalities. They are diurnal, which means they are
awake during the day. They are quiet, but have a range
of calls and chatters. Some guinea pigs are skittish.
Guinea pigs require a calm environment and a large
habitat that allows for plenty of daily exercise. The
habitat requires regular cleaning and long-haired
guinea pigs need to be groomed. Guinea pigs are best
kept in same-sex pairs. Males are called boars and
females are sows. They enjoy being handled and must
have items to chew to wear down their constantly
growing teeth. They do not climb and are content in a
large habitat with a minimum of six square feet.
Domestic Rats and
Mice
Domestic rats and mice have a average life span of
four to six years. A mouse usually grows to a ten
centimeter body with an eight centimeter tail, while a
rat has a 20 centimeter body with a 25 centimeter
tail. Their origin is Asia and several strains of
domestic rats and mice now exist. They are tame
through thousands of generations of selective
breeding. Rats and mice are omnivores. Commercial
gerbil or hamster mix containing seeds, nuts, and
pellets can be fed to them. Also, supplement with hay,
fresh fruit, and vegetables. Rats and mice are easily
tamed if handled regularly. They seldom bite, are
intelligent, curious, and adventuresome both day and
night. They are very clean. They do, however, require
a habitat that allows for a lot of daily exercise.
Small, fast moving animals can be difficult to handle.
They tend to nibble on fingers. Rats and mice can be
easily hurt if squeezed or dropped, and are easy to
loose if they escape from their habitat. Rats and mice
are best kept in pairs of same sex from birth. They
must have items to chew to wear down their constantly
growing teeth. Their habitat requires plenty of room
and nest building material. They require a warm, dry,
environment with a temperature range of 18 to 20
degrees Celsius.
Dogs
Dogs have an average life span of 10 to 15 years.
They are all different sizes, depending on the breed.
Different breeds of dogs come from virtually all
places in the world. Dogs were domesticated thousands
of years ago. Their origin is believed to be wolf-like
ancestors. Dogs are omnivores, eating meat, grains,
and vegetables. Commercial dog food has all the
nutrients dogs need. Dogs are social animals who like
to belong to a family which they regard as their pack.
Properly socialized dogs will be loyal companions.
They are fun to play with and are quite easy to care
for. Dogs need a lot of space and time. You cannot
leave dogs alone for long periods. You must always
clean up after your dog. Dogs require regular grooming
and vet bills can be expensive. Dogs need to be
trained, which takes time and patience. Puppies need
to be toilet trained. Make sure you have a well made
collar and leash on your dog for going on your twice
daily walks. All dogs must have a dog license and
identification. Remember to have your dog spayed or
neutered.
Hamsters
Hamsters have an average life span of two to three
years. They are larger than a mouse and smaller than a
guinea pig. Their origin is in North China, Siberia,
Iran, and Mongolia. Hamsters have been captive bred
since 1930's and several breeds are now available.
Hamsters have an omnivore diet. Commercial hamster mix
containing seeds, nuts and pellets, also fresh fruit,
vegetables, hay, and on occasion, small pieces of raw
meat or mealworms can be fed to hamsters. Hamsters are
exceptionally clean and can be tamed to accept
handling. As nocturnal animals, hamsters should not be
disturbed or handled during the daytime. They are shy
solitary creatures and require a calm and quiet
daytime environment. They require a habitat that
allows for ample nightly exercise. They are prone to
nip and can be hurt easily if squeezed. Hamsters enjoy
solitary living, though two females could be kept in
the same habitat if born and raised together. They
must have items to chew to wear down their constantly
growing teeth.
Rabbits
A rabbit's average life span is 7 to 12 years,
depending on the breed. They are a dwarf species and
grow to approximately 1.5 kilogram to 5.5 kilogram.
Tame rabbits were bred from the wild European
cotton-tail. Rabbits are domesticated and bred as
pets, food animals, and laboratory animals. Many
breeds and sizes are available. Rabbits eat commercial
pellets, hay - do not feed them alfalfa, and
supplement with fresh fruits and vegetables. Rabbits
are sociable, seldom bite, and have unique
personalities. They are diurnal, which means awake
during the day. They are quiet, rarely make a sound
and can be easily litter box trained. Some rabbits are
skittish and territorial. They require a calm
environment and a habitat that allows for ample daily
exercise. Rabbits will chew plants, electrical and
phone cords, so you must "rabbit-proof" your home.
Rabbits are easily injured if dropped. They adapt best
when raised in a social environment and require a
large habitat or exercise area with items to chew to
wear down their constantly growing teeth. Males are
called bucks and females are called does. The young
are called kittens.
Birds and Fish
Birds can be fun. Many birds are tame and bred
locally as pets while others are wild. Some exotic
wild birds such as parrots may become endangered if
they continue to be taken from the wild. Parrots are
cool, but they do not make very good pets. They live
anywhere from 40 to 100 years, and require a special
diet and a lot of attention. Most budgies, parakeets,
and cockatiels have been captively bred as pets and
are smaller and easier to care for. Remember, birds
need a varied diet. You cannot feed birds just seeds.
Fish are amazing! With the right equipment which
includes a large tank and accessories, keeping fish
can be a lot of fun. However, remember that many
exotic fish come from countries where fish catchers
destroy the natural reef areas to harvest exotic fish
for the pet stores. Ask your aquarium store for
locally raised fish for your tank.
Cats
Cats have an average life span of 14 to 17 years,
with the oldest ever reported at 30 years. Their size
varies depending on breed, around 4 to 12 pounds. Cats
are believed to have originated from Egypt, but were
domesticated thousands of years ago from wildcats of
Africa. Cats are carnivorous. Commercial cat food has
all the nutrients cats need. While more independent
than dogs, cats enjoy being around people. They are
clean, quiet, and require little space. Cats can be
easily litter box trained and can remain indoors all
the time. You must clean out the litter box daily.
Cats also require regular grooming and their nails
trimmed. Cats will scratch furniture unless you
provide a scratch post and train them to use it. Cats
require regular veterinary check-ups, vaccinations,
and spaying and neutering, which can be expensive.
Outdoor cats are more likely to require veterinary
care. Cats require identification in case they get
lost. There are special cat collars you can buy.
Remember to have your cat spayed or neutered.
Aquariums
Insuring First Aquarium Success
Having a successful tank is not difficult, nor is
it necessarily a lot of work, provided you use some
common sense. These guidelines are based partly on
science and partly on experience of aquarists have
many years of experience. The following list
summarizes the most important rules for success. Have
patience. Buying a tank, setting it up and filling it
with fish all in the same day, while possible, is a
sure road to disaster. In fact, setting up and fully
stocking your fish tank will take close to two months.
An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
Providing an environment that minimizes fish stress is
the key to success. Minimizing stress includes
performing regular partial water changes, not
overfeeding, checking that your filtration system
works, giving them enough room to live and keeping
compatible tank mates. Understand and respect the
nitrogen cycle. Fish produce toxic wastes that must be
broken down by bacteria. Most fish deaths for
first-time tank owners are a direct result of not
understanding the nitrogen cycle and are completely
avoidable. Perform regular maintenance on your filter
to keep it clean. Dirty filters operate at reduced
efficiency and may result in fish stress and eventual
death. Properly acclimate fish before adding them to
your tank. Never add store water to you tank as it may
contain diseases. If feasible, quarantine new
purchases for 2-3 weeks before adding them to your
tank. Perform regular partial water changes. Regular
partial water changes help insure that you tank's
water chemistry doesn't deviate significantly form
that of your tap water. This is especially important
should disease strike your tank. Water changes are the
most important step in controlling disease, and large
water changes are not safe unless the chemical
composition of your tank's water is similar to your
tap water. Shop only at reputable stores. Sadly, many
pet stores are more interested in taking your money
than selling you health fish. It is almost always
worth spending a little more money to get quality
fish. Diseases introduced to you tank with newly
purchased fish may infect your other fish with deadly
results.
How Much Time and Effort is
Involved
After Setup For a ten to twenty gallon tank, expect
to spend 30 minutes every other week doing partial
water changes, cleaning the tank, etc. You will also
spend a few minutes every day feeding your fish,
turning the lights on and off, etc. Many people
however, will spend hours just LOOKING at their fish,
which of course is the point of having one in the
first place! Be prepared to spend several hours
researching the hobby before you make your first
purchase. The more time your spend BEFORE you actually
get the tank, the smoother things will go. Go to
several pet stores to find one that looks like a
reputable place. Visit them again several times more
and get some beginner books. Most people who get
frustrated with fish tanks made mistakes that could
have been easily avoided. The way to avoid mistakes is
to learn the basics beforehand.
Water
Properly treat all tap water before adding it to
your tank. Municipal water contains such added
chemicals like chlorine or chloramine to make it safe
for human consumption. These substances are toxic to
fish and can weaken, damage or ever kill fish. Take
time to learn basic water chemistry which is pH,
hardness and buffering. You don't need a chemistry
class, but you need enough knowledge about water
chemistry and the specifics of your local water supply
so that you can keep your fish happy. Every location's
water is different and some fish won't be able to
survive in your water. You can learn water details
from your local fish store and by using special water
"test" kits, or from your local aquarium clubs. Keep
the pH of your tank's water stable. Rapid pH changes
stress fish. Tank water has a natural tendency to
become acidic due to the production of nitric acid
from the nitrogen cycle. Keeping pH stable requires
having adequate "buffering". If your water is soft,
you may need to add buffering agents. Avoid adding
chemicals that lower the pH. Such chemical frequently
have undesirable side-effects. Moreover, in most
cases, the pH of water does NOT need to be adjusted to
make it "more perfect" for a particular species of
fish. If the pH of your tap water is between 6.5 and
7.5, it is just fine for most fish. Pick fish for your
water. Select fish who are native to waters having
similar chemical properties to your local tap water.
If you have hard water, choose hard water fish. If you
have soft water, choose soft water fish. Changing the
natural hardness or pH of your tap water can be hard
work and often takes the fun out of keeping a tank.
Bungled attempts at adjustment can be disastrous. A
good way to learn which fish live happily in your
local water is to check with a local fish store or
club.
Birds
What Can I Afford
Cost varies according to the type of bird being
purchased. You can get a pair of finches for about
$20, or a budgie for about the same price. Cockatiels
range from $40 to $100, amazons are $250 to $800 and a
hyacinth macaw can command upwards from $6000! Set a
budget and work from there. Let the buyer beware of
bargain birds. They're usually not worth it. Hand-fed
birds are well worth the extra cost.
How much space will the bird need?
The larger birds and even some of the smaller ones
are very active and need large cages and areas to play
in. It's not fair to cramp a bird in a small cage. Do
you have time for a bird? This is probably the most
important questions. Birds are intelligent, playful
and most of all, social animals. Will you have time to
play with your bird? To properly care for it? Will it
have an opportunity to become part of your family?
Also, consider time in this way -- birds are rather
long lived. A little cockatiel can live up to 20
years. An amazon or African grey can live up to 50 or
60 years and there are documented cases of birds
living until 100 years old! Can you commit to that?
It's not unusual for birds to be passed down to
another generation. Don't buy a bird if you think you
will quickly tire of it. How noise is the bird? Will
your neighbors complain? Budgies and cockatiels are
rather quiet. They are good for apartment dwellers.
Aratinga conures are noted for their squawking -- sun
conures belong to this genus. Pyrhurra conures are
rather quiet. Does the bird need a special diet?
Lories and toucans, for example, require specialized
diets. Do you have the ways and means to provide it?
Once you've done your research and decided what kind
of bird you want, now is the time to go out and buy a
bird. Never, ever buy a bird on impulse.
What to Look for When Buying a
Bird
The first thing is that you want to be sure you get
a healthy, happy bird. Here are some things to look
for: Alert disposition. The bird should be interested
in its environment. It should be active. Avoid puffed
up and sleepy looking birds. Feathering. Make sure
feathering is shiny and without bare patches. On
long-tailed species like macaws, take a good look at
the tail. If there are thin lines running across tail
feathers, it's usually a good indicator of poor
nutrition. Please note however, that baby birds often
look rather tatty with the feathers somewhat frayed.
This is normal. The eyes should be bright and clear.
There should be no discharge. There should be not
swelling. Nostrils should be clear of any blockage.
There should be of the same size and shape. In birds
with bare facial patches, the skin should be clear and
white. A flush of red sometimes indicates an infection
of the sinus cavities. A scaly appearance of the
fleshy part around the nostrils indicates scaly face
which is a disease caused by mites. Upper and lower
parts of the beak should meet cleanly with no signs of
separation. In cockatoos, the beak should be grayish
and covered with powder. Never buy an older cockatoo
with a shiny black beak. It's a sure indication that
something is wrong. Baby cockatoo beaks however, will
be somewhat shiny. Feet should have all toes, although
a missing toe or claw for a pet isn't a bad thing. It
is however, out of the question for a show bird. More
than one toe or claw gone will hamper the bird's
perching ability. The bird should be able to grip its
perch or your hand firmly. The feet of a young bird
would be smooth and soft. Older birds have feet which
are more scaly. Excessive scaliness is not good, and
be indicative of vitamin A deficiency. Breathing
should be regular and even. No wheezing, snorting or
straining allowed. The bird should not be too skinny.
To check for this, ask someone to hold the bird while
you fell along the side of it breast bone. It should
be well fleshed out. If you can see the breastbone
protruding, the bird is obviously underweight and
might be suffering some illness. While the person has
the bird, have them turn if over and check the vent
area. It should be clean and clear of stains or pasted
feces. Ask to handle the bird yourself. Observe it. Is
the bird steady? Does the bird come readily to you?
Does it show good socialization behavior or does it
bite?
Purchasing Information
You've selected a bird and are ready to buy. What
should you do? You should make sure that if the bird
does not pass a vet exam, you have the privilege of
returning/exchanging the bird within a certain and
reasonable amount of time. Some dealers include a vet
check in the purchase price, but ask if you can take
the bird to your vet as well. Get a written bill of
sale clearly stating the terms of the sale. This
should include: The privilege to return the bird if it
is not up to par. Date of purchase and any other
conditions of the sale. The amount you paid for the
bird and the method of payment. The bird's band
number. The hatch date of the bird. A full description
of the bird, scientific name, any unusual markings and
the bird's sex. If the bird is imported, get all the
proper documentation. This information might prove to
be very useful when retrieving a stolen bird, or if
you should ever have to prove ownership of your
feathered friend. Also get written instructions on
diet and care. Get the number of the breeder/store and
the number of an avian vet, if you don't already have
one.
How to Get Your New Friend
Home
Bringing the bird home in a cage would make sense,
but it is less stressing for the bird if you brig it
home in a secure, darkened carrier. A cardboard box
with some air holes in it is ideal for small birds. A
plastic carrier like the ones used for cats and dogs
and covered with a towel, is excellent for larger
birds. Move the birds individually whenever possible.
For a journey of an hour or so, no food is needed. For
a long haul, sprinkle some food on the floor of the
carrier. Use firm, moist fruits to provide liquids.
Never put the birds in the trunk of a car. Try not to
stop too often. Try to have the cage already set up at
home. You can then put the new arrival into its new
cage and let it rest, and get used to the new scenery.
It is a good idea to isolate it from the rest of your
pet birds. Two weeks is a fair time. If you are buying
a bird that will have to be air shipped, you will pay
for a carrier and the air freight. You may also pay
what is called a "crate" or "box" fee. You will then
pick up the bird at the nearest airport.
Dogs
Your Veterinary Surgeon
Your greatest ally in the prevention of health
problems is your veterinary surgeon. Make sure you
register with a veterinary practice and find out what
the arrangements are for appointments or surgery
hours. Your veterinary surgeon will advice you on
vaccinations, worming, feeding and general health care
for your dog. Annual booster vaccinations are
essential to keep him healthy, and your veterinary
surgeon can give him a complete health check at the
same time. You can also use this opportunity to ask
any questions about your dog's health, but don't wait
until a booster is due before seeking advice for a
medical complaint. In some countries, you can take out
reasonable insurance to cover against veterinary fees.
An accident needing surgery and hospitalization
afterwards can be a sudden cost which may be hard to
meet. If your dog is sick, the veterinary surgeon will
need to know all the details about his illness, so
don't send him with a young child or friend who cannot
provide this information. Remember, always consult
your veterinary surgeon or his trained nursing staff
if you are in doubt about your dog's well being.
Vaccination
If your dog has not previously been vaccinated
against the common canine diseases, he will need an
initial course of two injections which are usually
administered two to four weeks apart. To maintain his
immunity to these diseases throughout his life, it is
very important that he received a booster vaccination
every year. With some variation according to country
and region, dogs should be routinely vaccinated
against some or all of the following diseases: canine
distemper; infectious hepatitis; canine parovirus;
leptospirosis; and rabies which may be a legal
requirement. All of these diseases can be fatal, and
all of them can be prevented by vaccination. Contrary
to popular belief, these diseases can also affect
adult dogs. In addition, it is now possible to
vaccinate against "kennel cough", which is a highly
infectious respiratory disease. This is a complex
condition, which can be caused by a number of
different organisms and there are vaccines available
that are effective against the most common ones.
Vaccination will prevent the disease in most cases,
and in the remainder, the severity of the disease is
much reduced. If your dog is likely to come in close
contact with other dogs, such as in kennels, or at dog
shows and training classes, you should consider
offering him this protection. Some boarding kennels
require this vaccination.
Worming
To ensure that your dog thrives and is not a health
risk to humans, you must worm him regularly for round
worms, especially if he is in close contact with young
children. For most adult dogs, it is sufficient to
worm him routinely every three months, but if you
actually see worms, you will have to treat him more
often, as advised by your veterinarian. There are many
safe, effective products available which will
eliminate these worms. Your veterinary surgeon will be
able to prescribe a suitable treatment. Breeding
bitches and puppies need worming more often, as
advised by your veterinarian. Tapeworms may also be a
problem from time to time. If your dog is infected,
you will probably notice tapeworm segments in his fur
around his back end or in the feces. They look like
grains of rice and are often seen to move.
Occasionally, you may see a larger segment of
tapeworm, which will be flat and ribbon-like. One type
of tapeworm which affects dogs may be acquired by
eating untreated offal of animals, especially sheep,
which harbor the intermediate state of the parasite.
Another type of tapeworm is transmitted by the flea,
so it is wise to treat your dog for fleas if you
notice any tapeworms. The ordinary roundworm tablets
are not effective against tapeworms - a different form
of treatment is required. Some products are available
for dogs which are effective against both round and
tapeworms. Ask your veterinarian for advice.
Fleas
If your dog has fleas, he may be constantly
scratching and biting himself, especially along the
back and around the base of the tail. Some dogs are
actually allergic to the flea's saliva and for these
dogs, the bite of a single flea is enough to provoke a
violent skin reaction. You may see the brownish-black
fleas themselves, moving through you dog's hair or you
may notice the presence of dark specks of material -
flea dirt or feces, in his coat. Your veterinarian
will recommend a suitable de-fleaing agent, and will
advice you on an effective flea-eradication program.
Remember to treat other pets in the household as well.
If you do find that your dog has fleas, it is
essential to treat his environment as well, because
fleas spend more of their life away from their host
than on it. Remove all of the dog's bedding and wash
it well, along with the box or basket itself. Dusting
powder in the blanket or box will help enormously.
Don't forget to vacuum thoroughly around the carpets,
skirting boards and furniture. You should also use an
insecticidal powder or aerosol which has been designed
for use in the environment. The residue is vacuumed
off a few hours after application. Most of these
products are NOT suitable for use DIRECTLY ON YOUR
DOG.
Neutering
Unless you want to breed your dog, take the advice
of your veterinary surgeon about neutering or other
forms of reproductive control. The surgical operation
is straightforward. Your veterinarian will advise you
on the best time to perform the operation. Female dogs
normally come in heat, or into season every six months
or so. At this time, they are very attractive to male
dogs. Not only will male dogs try very hard to gain
access to the female, but the female herself will
behave quite differently when in season. She must be
kept confined and it is often safer to put her into a
kennel when she is in heat, but it is far better to
neuter the dog if breeding is not required. The
operation is called spaying in the female day, and in
the male dog, the operation is called castration.
These procedures can be preformed at any time after
the animal is mature. Some dogs, both male and female,
have a tendency to put on weight after they have been
neutered. However, this should not be a problem if you
keep a watch on you dog's weight and adjust his or her
food intake as necessary.
Be a Responsible Dog Owner
Like all worthwhile things in life, owning a dog
involves responsibilities as well as pleasures. The
pleasures are obvious, but sometimes the
responsibilities, not just to the dog but also to
other people and the environment, are not always
appreciated by the owner. A well trained and
disciplined dog is an asset to his owner so make sure
he receives at least some basic obedience training.
Don't allow him to foul public footpaths or childrens'
play areas. But if he does, use a scooping device to
clean up after him. Keep him on the lead near roads,
among farm animals, or anywhere that he would be a
nuisance if allowed to run free. Keep him healthy,
well fed and exercised. And, don't let him disturb the
neighbors with his barking. Some of your
responsibilities as a dog owner are set out by the
law. In some states, every dog, whatever his age, must
wear a collar and tag which bears the name and address
of his owner whenever the dog is in a public place.
Other, more permanent forms of identification, such as
tattoos and microchip implants, are now available. Ask
your veterinary surgeon for more information. Ask your
local council for the laws and bylaws pertinent to dog
ownership.
Growing Dogs
While your puppy is maturing, you should continue
to feed him a growth formulation as the major part of
his diet. He needs this concentrated nutrition to
complete his development and consolidate the growth of
firm muscles, strong bones and healthy body tissue. As
he nears the size and weight of an adult dog, you can
gradually introduce him to adult foods. He should be
used to an adult food by the time he is fully grown,
which may be any time from six months to two years of
age, depending on his breed. The changeover from puppy
to adult food should be done gradually - preferably
over a period of a week. Most dog owners are rightly
concerned that they are providing an adequate diet for
their pet. Puppy owners in particular, are aware of
the heavy nutritional demands made by the puppy's body
as it grows and may be tempted to feed the puppy as
much as he will east. However, left to their own
devices, many dogs will tend to overeat. This could
have damaging consequences for your puppy. In order to
avoid these, it is generally recommended that food
intake is moderately controlled in growing dogs. In
the smaller and medium-size breeds, overfeeding of the
growing dog is likely to cause obesity. The extra food
he receives will be converted into fat and stored in
his body. While he is still young and growing, his
body will produce extra fat cells to store the excess
fat, and once formed, these cells will stay with him
for life. This may make his prone to obesity as an
adult. In the large and giant breeds, overfeeding of
rapidly growing puppies an cause a number of skeletal
deformities. It is therefore, important to monitor
your growing dog's weight and his general condition to
be sure that you are feeding the correct amount.
Record his weight regularly and check that he is
growing at a healthy rate appropriate to his breed. If
he has more than a moderate covering of fat over his
ribs, he may be getting too fat. Ask your veterinarian
for advice if you are unsure about your growing dog's
condition.
Adult Dogs
As with other animals, dogs eat to satisfy their
requirement for energy. A diet which contains the
right amount of energy for an individual animal must,
therefore, provide all the other essential nutrients
in the correct amount, and the correct balance.
Although carbohydrate and fat are the most common and
useful sources of energy, dogs can also obtain energy
from the protein in their diet. Indeed, carbohydrate
is a useable, but not essential part of the dog's
diet. A balance of energy is important to maintain the
dog in good health at all stages of his life. Too
little can result in loss of weight, lethargy and poor
condition. Too much will lead to obesity and all its
complications, or growth deformities in puppies of the
large and giant breeds. The energy requirement of your
dog will depend on how active he is, if he is working,
whether he is kept indoors or outside, and if he is
ill, old or still growing. Females which are pregnant
or lactating will also have a greater energy
requirement. If you dog is less active as he gets
older, you may need to cut his food ratio down a
little so that he doesn't become fat. When you use a
prepared pet food, the label on the packaging will
provide a guideline as to how much to feed your dog.
Bear in mind that these recommendations are a
guideline only and you must make adjustments according
to your dog's needs. If he is very active, he may need
more than the recommended amount, but if he is quite
sedentary, then he will probably need less. Don't
forget to allow for any other food he is receiving
such as the calories in biscuits, treats and other
tidbits.
Working Dogs
Working dogs such as sheep dogs, police dogs and
gun dogs can have much higher energy needs than adult
dogs of the same breed who are being fed for
maintenance. All working dogs however, have increased
energy needs. Several factors are involved such as the
environmental temperature, the age of the dog, the
thickness of his coat and the amount of work he does.
Typically, a true working dog will require two to four
times the adult maintenance ration, which is usually
fed as one third in the morning and the remaining two
thirds on completion of the working day. You can offer
your dog the extra energy in his diet by increasing
the amount of mixer you feed him. This is more
economical than increasing the meat content of his
meal.
Older Dogs
As your dog gets older, he will gradually become
less active. Since he is using up less energy, it
makes sense to keep an eye on his weight and if
necessary, to cut down his food ration to keep him at
his optimum weight. This is especially important in
the elderly dog since a fat body will put more strain
on the heart and lungs, and also on the muscles and
joints. Obese dogs may have a shorter life expectancy.
If your dog becomes clinically obese, your
veterinarian may place him on a special low calorie
diet under both his and your strict supervision! In
some dogs, however, the digestive system becomes less
efficient with age. These dogs may not be able to use
all the nutrients in their food and they may have
difficulty in maintaining their body weight. For them,
small but frequent meals may be useful. An ideal diet
is a concentrated one which tastes good and is easily
digested. There are some medical conditions which may
benefit from changes in diet. Examples of this are the
level of phosphorus and protein in kidney disease and
the level of sale in congestive heart failure. Your
veterinarian will be able to advise you on a suitable
diet for you dog. Special diets, such as those which
are used for the management of certain conditions are
available through your veterinarian. Water should
always be available for your dog. You should monitor
how much he is drinking and seek prompt medical
attention if there is any sudden increase in water
intake. This could signify the onset of one of a
number of medical conditions such as kidney disease or
diabetes. Some old dogs may be a little arthritic in
the neck and will have difficulty in bending down to
eat. If this is the case, raise his food bowl off the
floor slightly or place it on a step.
Twelve Golden Rules to Dog
Ownership
The basics of responsible dog ownership may be
summed up in these twelve golden rules:
1. Train your dog in elementary obedience so that
he is under your control at all times.
2. Feed your dog from his own dishes, which must be
kept apart from those of the human family and washed
up separately.
3. Never let your dog out unsupervised, to run
loose.
4. Keep your dog on a lead anywhere near a road, or
where there are farm animals.
5. Do not allow your dog to foul pavements,
buildings, lawns and gardens or open spaces where
children play. Always clean up after him.
6. Do not allow your dog to be noisy and disturb
your neighbors.
7. Provide your dog with his own bed rather than
let him sleep on yours.
8. Never take your dog into a food shop.
9. Keep your dog clean and regularly groomed.
10. Register your pet as a patient and yourself as
a client with a veterinary surgery right away. Do not
wait for an emergency.
11. If you do not wish your dog to have puppies,
you should obtain advice from your veterinarian.
12. Make proper arrangements for the care of your
pet when you are going on vacation.
Elderly Pets
General Information
Older pets, just like older people, have special
health needs, and require a little more attention and
care than their juniors. The small amount of extra
looking after they need will be well rewarded in
continuing good health for them, and years of
rewarding companionship for you.
How Old is Elderly
This depends on the breed and on the individual
pet. Larger breeds tend to age more rapidly than
smaller ones. In general, elderly means over eighty
years old for dogs, and over ten for cats. As dogs and
cats grow older, their organs become less efficient,
and they may be less able to resist infections and
other diseases. As a responsible owner, you will want
your pet to remain healthy and active for as long as
possible, so you should be aware of any condition
which might need your veterinarian's attention. There
are several reasons why a special diet may be needed
for an elderly pet. It will naturally be less active
than a younger animal, and therefore may need less
energy from its diet. Organs can become less efficient
in dealing with food, and adjustments need to be made
to its diet, especially to the protein content.
Caring For the Health of Elderly
Pets
A assessment of your pet should be made regularly
to make sure its appearance and behavior are normal.
If it refuses food, is unduly reluctant to go out, is
in obvious pain, or has problem urinating or passing
motions, you should seek the advice of your
veterinarian. There are also a number of specific
health problems which you should watch for with an
elderly dog or cat. As your pet gets older, arthritis
may develop in joints. This will probably mean that
your pet becomes less active, but for a dog it means
that you should be careful about the amounts of
exercise it gets -- too much could make arthritis
worse. Older pets are more susceptible to diseases of
their hearts and lungs, Alert your veterinarian at
once it you notice signs such as coughs, wheezing or
breathing difficulties. In dogs especially, ear
infections can occur. Look for signs such as discharge
from the ear, persistent head shaking or pawing of the
ear. Hearing, sight and smell can all become less
acute with age, and you may need to make allowances
for this. For instance, your dog may not obey you
simply because it doesn't not hear a command. Eye
problems such as infections, cataracts, and even
blindness also become more common. Watch out for
discharge from the eyes, or any signs that sight is
impaired, such as bumping into furniture. Disease of
the gums can not only lead to loss of teeth, but may
also cause a more serious condition if the bacteria
enter the bloodstream. Examine your pet's teeth
regularly, and ask your veterinarian's advice if the
teeth or gums do not look normal. Bladder incontinence
can be a problem in elderly animals, and even a pet
which has been house-trained for years may suddenly
disgrace itself. In dogs, this is sometimes due to
problems with the nervous system affecting bladder
control, but in both dogs and cats, it may be due to a
urinary infection or diseases of the bladder of
kidney. It a pet suddenly becomes incontinent, consult
your veterinarian. Finally, don't forget that regular
vaccination is just as important for older dogs or
cats as in young ones.
Feeding an Elderly Pet
One of the commonest problems in elderly pets is
obesity. It is usually due to the dog or cat being
less active, and so burning up less energy and needing
fewer calories. If your pet eats the same amount of
food as when it was more active, it will put on
weight, and this may cause other health problems. The
answer is a reduced amount of the current diet, or a
special low calorie diet. Your veterinarian will be
able to advice on what you pet's ideal weight is, and
how much you should feed each day to achieve and keep
to this weight. A quick way to check if your pet is
overweight is to feel its ribs. If you can fell them
only with difficulty, loss of weight is needed.
Elderly pets may have reduced efficiency of kidney
function. Kidneys process body waste products,
especially the products of protein metabolism, which
are then passed out in the urine. Because kidney
problems are common, a special diet in which the
protein content has been reduced may be advisable in
older pets. Elderly pets sometimes have poor
appetites, and may need tempting to eat. The following
tips may be helpful: * Feed on a little and often
basis. Divide the daily allowance into two to four
small meals. * Warm the food gently, but only to body
temperature. It must not be allowed to get hot. *
Leave the food down for about ten to fifteen minutes,
and then remove it. Your pet is more likely to eat
fresh food offered later on.
Puppies
Introduction
Holiday shopping looms and pet stores are ready
with a supply of puppies. Prices may seem a bit high,
but plastic money is accepted at the checkout counter.
Puppies are playful, have quick tongues that lavish
kisses on happy faces and are AKC registered. The
staff is eager to put a wiggly bundle of fur into a
customer's arms. The customer is reluctant to put that
squirmy, loving puppy back into that tiny display cage
with the wire bottom So the puppy goes home with the
happy family. All may be well - the puppy may grow
into just the dog the customer wanted -- easily
housetrained, gentle with the baby, playful with the
older children, quiet companion for the adults, a
healthy, easily trained pooch that readily fits family
and lifestyle. Or, all may NOT be well. The puppy may
by high strung, destructive, impossible to house
train, disobedient, nippy and unhealthy. Although many
people get good pets from pet stores, chances are that
the puppy will have one or more problems caused by
poor breeding practices and the pet store will have no
answers for the customers seeking to solve those
problems. Most pet stores have some kind of guarantee
or warranty under which they'll take the puppy back if
certain conditions are met within a specified time.
They are not equipped to handle training problems,
behavior problems, or decisions about whether to breed
a particular animal or to spay or neuter it. And the
pet store staff generally knows little or nothing
about the temperament, care, health problems or
behavior of the breeds they sell.
The Source of Pet Store
Puppies
Pet stores have been accused of getting their
puppies from puppy mills, but this is not true of
reputable independent or chain stores. However, they
do get their puppies from commercial kennels or
brokers who are in the business to sell puppies.
Commercial kennels often produce many breeds of dogs.
They are required to be licensed by the US Department
of Agriculture and must provide facilities and a play
for veterinary care that meet the guidelines of the
federal Animal Welfare Act. Brokers buy dogs from
large and small breeders who also must be licensed by
USDA and meet the AWA criteria. Brokers advertise for
puppies. The promise top prices, breeder programs,
breeder appreciation events, veterinary exams, breeder
education, loyalty, courtesy, and careful
transportation to entice breeders into the fold. The
puppies are a commodity to them. Chances are slim that
puppies from these sources come from dogs that have
been tested for the genetic diseases common to their
breeds. Hip x-rays, blood tests and eye certifications
cost money, and those costs could not be passed
through the chain to the pet store without adding
considerably to the cost. Some pet stores buy puppies
locally from breeders who produce a few litters from
one or more breeds each year. These people supplement
their income by selling puppies and are spared the
difficulties of interviewing prospective buyers or
keeping unsold puppies. In all likelihood, these
breeders do not test for genetic diseases, place no
limits on puppy registrations, have a marginal health
program, know little about the breed standard, and
have poor quality breeding stock.
Pet Quality Puppies
Many customers look for a pet in a pet shop because
they are looking for a family pet, not a show dog.
They buy a pretty puppy that doesn't meet the breed
standard is some way, and base their impressions of
the breed on a animal that may be over or under-sized,
have a poor temperament or crazy behavior patterns, or
exhibit one or more physical attributes that violate
the breed standard. Often, these dogs are not spayed
or neutered and they wind up producing puppies that
are even further from the standard. Today we have
Labrador Retrievers with legs that belong on Great
Danes; American Eskimos that look like Samoyeds with
snippy heads; light-boned Akitas; Shetland Sheepdogs
as big as Collies; Dalmatians and Airedales with
screwy personalities and all sorts of strange
combinations. The buyer cannot visit the facility that
produced the puppies or talk to the breeder; ask about
genetic clearances, parent-dog temperaments, or breed
characteristics; see the quality of adult dogs
produced by the kennel, be reimbursed if the dog
develops a genetic disease two or three years down the
road, get help with training or behavior problems, ask
for local references, and on, and on.
Questions to Ask at the
Store
Those who find just the right puppy in a pet store,
and do not want to search for a responsible breeder
can still ask questions before signing the check or
the charge slip. Here are a few:
* Where did these puppies come from? Is that a
licensed USDA dealer?
* Does the kennel or broker insist on genetic
clearances for breeding stock?
* Can I get a copy of the eye and hip
certification?
* What health problems are common to this
breed?
* What type of temperament does this breed have?
* Does the breed have a tendency to bark a lot? *
How much socialization do they need?
* How much exercise does this breed need?
* How much grooming?
* How badly do they shed?
* What happens to the puppies if you don't sell
them?
*Are they sent to rescue groups, euthanized, or
returned to the breeder?
Responsible, reliable puppy producers have the
answers to these questions. If the pet store clerk or
manager does not, do yourself a favor and look
elsewhere. Pet stores usually have a variety of
puppies of different breeds and thus provide an
opportunity to compare, contrast and choose. However,
if the staff is not knowledgeable about each breed it
sells, the very fact that variety is available is
useless to the buyer.
Snakes
Caring for Your Snake
Each snake has various needs that must be met in
order to keep it in good health in captivity. The
following is an outline of factors that are important
to the well-being of your pet.
1. Temperature
2. Housing
3. Feeding
4. Skin Shedding
5. Parasites and Disease
6. Sexing and Breeding
Temperature
A reptile has the same temperature as its
surroundings. It simply moves to a warmer area to heat
up and a colder spot to cool down. Most have an
optimum body temperature that can be maintained within
a few degrees and that generally lies between 80 and
88 degrees Fahrenheit. Most tropical species prefer
the top half of the range, and most temperate zone
snakes like the bottom half. A temperature gradient in
the crate lets the snake decide how warm it wants to
be. A thermometer can be the keepers best friend
because a snake won't eat if it's more than a few
degrees below optimum temperature. Snakes have a
day-night temperature cycle in the wild. Some studies
indicate that if a reptile is constantly held at
optimum temperature for weeks, it suffers heat stress.
Males have the sperm killed. It is probably best for a
snake to spend the night at temperature of 5 to 20
degree Fahrenheit below its daytime activity
temperature.
Housing
Cages should be of adequate size, easy to keep
clean, adequately ventilated and escape proof.
Aquariums with pegboard tops make good cages. Plastic
show boxes and storage boxes also make good cages
after enough air holes have been cut in them. Plastic
cages up to four feet long are available commercially.
Big cages can be made of wood and pegboard, but not
wire mesh or screen because a snake can but it nose
raw on wire. Most snakes do not need much space.
Suggested minimum cages sizes are ½ square foot of
floor space per foot of snake for those up to six feet
in length and 2/4 square foot floor space for those
six to nine feet long. Increase the suggested minimum
cage sizes 25 percent for each additional snake. Cages
must be kept clean because snakes can develop dirty
cage syndrome when droppings build up. Cages should be
cleaned every week or two with a detergent and a
disinfectant like 5% sodium hypochlorite bleach like
Clorox, diluted as given on the label for woodwork.
Coal tar and phenol products like Lysol and Pinesol
are toxic. Do not use them. Some kind of floor
covering makes cleaning easier. Paper, including
newspaper, outdoor carpet and pea gravel are good.
Shredded aspen, a birous wood product is also good for
medium and large snakes. Sand, soil, sawdust and kitty
litter are not good. Sand and soil don't dry well, and
a wet cage encourages skin diseases. Dust from sawdust
and kitty litter can give a snake incurable pneumonia.
Cedar chips may be toxic. Most snakes do very well in
a simple cage. All require a water bowl and some sort
of hiding place. Hatchlings will coil up in the
crevices in a loosely wadded piece of newspaper. A
closed cardboard cereal box with a hole in a corner
works for larger snakes. If the box is too big for the
snake, fill it with loosely wadded newspaper. Tree
snakes need a branch. Rocks, plants and other
furnishings are strictly optional. It is best to keep
one snake in each cage, particularly if it's a snake
eater like a king snake. But if snakes must be caged
together, snakes of the same species are more likely
to get along than snakes of different species.
Feeding
All snakes are carnivorous. They never eat lettuce,
carrots, bread and similar items. The diet varies from
species to species. Check a reference book for each
one. Individuals also show preferences. Whenever
possible, the snake's nature food should be offered.
Most adult shakes should be fed every week or ten
days, and younger growing snakes should eat more
often. A snake can go for weeks without food if
necessary, but if does better on a medium sized meal
once a week than a huge meal every three weeks. Hungry
mice have eaten captive snakes, so a live rat or mouse
shouldn't stay in the cage more than an hour if
uneaten. However, snakes don't require live prey. Many
snakes don't care whether the food is alive or dead,
and some will only accept dead food. Frozen good can
be used after it is thoroughly thawed. If your snake
won't eat, it may be too cool. Or it may want its food
inside a hiding box for seclusion. It may want
something different. If a live adult mouse frightens
your snake, try a freshly killed one or a live pinky.
Cutting open the belly of a dead mouse produces a
blood smell and a wet area that helps to stimulate
feeding. If nothing works, try to find an experienced
herper for help. Force feeding is traumatic and is
strictly a last resort.
Skin Shedding
Every one to three months a snake sheds it skin.
The eye is cloudy for a few days, then clears, and the
skin is shed a few days later. Shedding takes only a
few minutes once the old skin is rubbed loose at the
lips. Most snakes refuse food during this period.
Sometimes not all of the skin is shed. This seldom
happens if the humidity is kept at the proper level of
40 to 70 percent. Daily spraying of water after the
eyes clear helps to prevent problems. If some of the
skins remains unshed, the snake should be soaked in a
container half filled with water at 70 to 80 degrees F
for an hour or so. Then the old skin can be gently
peeled off.
Parasites and
Disease
Snakes can suffer from many ailments - mites and
ticks on the skin, worms in the gut and protozoa
bacteria, or viruses attacking the mouth, skin and
internal organs. Even cancer has been found. New
specimens should be quarantined for at least two
weeks, and possibly for as much as three months so
that they can be checked for parasites and disease. If
the owner is not equipped to treat any disease that
occurs, the snake should be taken to a veterinarian
who is experienced in treating reptiles. Ticks are
arthropods, an eighth of an inch long or more that
suck blood and carry disease. They can be gently
pulled off with forceps and dropped in a vial of
alcohol. Try to avoid leaving the tick's head in the
snake's skin because a minor infection results. Mites
are pinhead-sized, blood sucking arthropods closely
related to ticks. The common snake mite almost always
arrives on a snake from a pet store or other infested
location. The are seldom found on freshly caught
snakes. Putting a two inch square of a Shell No-Pest
Strip or equivalent in the snake cage overnight, kills
the mites. Put the strip in a cardboard or plastic
container with holes in it. The insecticide can come
out, but the snake can't touch the stip. Don't give
water at this time. Afterwards, clean the cage well.
This treatment should be enough if the mite-carrying
snake has just arrived. If the mites are detected
immediately, they spread. The treatment may have to be
repeated once a week for a month to catch them all.
Worm parasites are often present in the gut where most
do little harm. The are detected by fecal examinations
and killed with commercial wormers.
Sexing and Breeding
A snake's sex can be determined in several ways:
1. Probing. This is the most reliable, but is
should be done by an experienced person. In this
method, a metal probe is slipped through the vent to
check for the presence of a hemipenis, the male
copulatory organ. Every male has two hemipenes in the
base of the tail.
2. A simple visual examination of the tail's length
and thickness. The hemipenes make the tails of males
longer and thicker than the tails of females of the
same size. When looked at from the side, male tails
are generally half as thick at the middle as at the
base. Female tales are usually half as thick a quarter
of the tail's length from the base. While learning,
look at adult snakes of known sex before trying it on
juveniles and adults of unknown sex.
3. Spurs. Male boa constrictors and pythons have
spurs on either side of the vent that are longer than
those of the female. In general, breeding snakes
requires closely copying their natural conditions.
This may include a seasonal day-night cycle with a
full spectrum light like Duro-test's Vita-lite, winter
cooling, and other factors. Although captive breeding
should be encouraged, it requires more dedication than
simply keeping a few snakes.
Sugar
Gliders
What Does a Sugar Glider Look
Like
Sugar gliders grow to about five to six inches in
length - excluding their long tails and have long
bushy tails which they use for balance. Their fur is
usually grey-silver with white bellies and a black
stripe which extends from the tops of their heads to
the end of their tails. Their face is similar to that
of a possum.
Do Sugar Gliders Make Good Pets
They adapt very readily to captivity and can
develop very strong relationships with their human
keepers. They are small in size, are very intelligent
and love to play. They are much smarter than a hamster
or rat and have a much longer life-span. Most will
live to be ten years old or older. They love human
attention. They develop strong bonds with their
owners.
Veterinarians
Selecting an Animal
Hospital
When considering a veterinarian or animal hospital,
you should first determine what your animal's needs
are. Most veterinarians and animal hospitals will
perform a variety of services including surgery and
dental work. Individuals may specialize in either
large animals such as horses, or small animals such as
birds. Choose the individual you and your pet are most
comfortable with. Most places will offer grooming and
boarding, food and supplies. Consider the hours of
operation. Many places will remain open in the evening
or on the weekend. Clinics are not usually open 24
hours, but they will provide you with a number in case
there's an emergency.
Animal Vaccination Schedules
A new pet needs a series of vaccinations.
Vaccinating your pet is highly recommended and is also
the law. Depending on what type of pet you have and
its age, the vaccination schedule will vary. Consult a
veterinarian or animal hospital for particulars. Be
sure to advise your veterinarian of the age, sex, and
breed of your pet and make an appointment for their
first set of shots. After that, you will be advised of
a regular schedule. Veterinarians will offer records
so you can keep track of the vaccinations. Some will
send reminder notices through the mail, some make
house calls if the animal is large, and there are even
those who will pick up your animal and then return it
to you later.
Veterinary Services Offered
There are various services offered by
veterinarian's and animal hospitals for your pet.
Usually, your pet will visit the clinic or hospital
for a check-up and vaccinations. Most places offer
evening and weekend appointments
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